#121 Kyoto March 2016 Cherry Blossom

So I already visited Kyoto a few months back in September 2015. It was during Japanese public holidays so of course it was very crowded, but I figured I would probably go back again sometime before I left Japan.

In March 2016 I returned to Kyoto, in time for cherry blossom season (but too early for full bloom!). I honestly don't really get the whole sakura obsession Japan goes through, complete with sakura flavoured foods and drinks. I mean they look nice but.... I'm not going to eat a daffodil or a rose, so why would I want to eat a cherry blossom? Anyway, back to Kyoto!

Since it was cherry blossom season and a weekend, it was again pretty busy. In fact, I'm not really sure when you could visit Kyoto that it wouldn't be busy. The cherry blossoms weren’t even out yet; there was maybe like one or two trees starting to bloom wherever we went, so obviously these were very crowded. The advantage was there were tons of young women in kimono coming to take photos with their friends, so there were ample opportunities to take some sly photos of them (but if you want a photo of their faces you should always ask permission first!).

If you’re planning on coming to Japan to see cherry blossoms my recommendation is: don’t. It’s hard to plan for (unless you’re planning on coming for a month) and will ultimately lead to disappointment if there’s only one tree in bloom by the time you leave, or all the leaves are blowing off. If you insist on coming I would definitely recommend the JR Pass. The unlimited travel included in the price means you can travel further for free, for example if the only ones blooming are far North or South, as these could be otherwise very expensive to get to.

As for the season and timing, it was bad since the cherry blossoms weren’t really blooming and most of the other vegetation was also still kinda dead. Especially at Kiyomizu dera (the big temple on the hill) the surrounding trees and nature below looked brown and awful in comparison to when I visited in September. The weather was also very changeable, one minute hot and the next cold which meant we were constantly taking on and off our jackets. I think skipping the cherry blossom crowds and coming later in around April/May would be better, as the weather’s usually quite warm and there is more vegetation. (However if you’re coming in May beware of Golden Week, the biggest public holiday in Japan held start of May).

Again the public transport was annoying...especially on weekends and during rush hour on weekdays you’ll find yourself standing on a crowded bus stuck in stationary traffic. The bus route from Kinkakuji (the gold temple) is probably the worst as it’s often very busy and takes a long time in traffic to get to the station. Also, the area of Arashiyama (the bamboo forest) is awkward to access, it means getting a long subway and then walking for around 15mins (there is also some kind of bus option – but in my experience the buses always run late so avoid if possible, which in Kyoto is difficult). Despite the somewhat inconvenient public transport, taxis in Japan are very expensive and I wouldn’t recommend one either. My best advice is to allow plenty of time and just laugh at the experience of being wedged in public transport in Japan. Other than that there are some bicycle rentals which could be useful as long as it’s not too hot or too cold.

I also took another day trip to Nara and the deer park. I noticed this time that the train from Kyoto to Nara passes through Uji, which is famous around Japan for its green tea, so I’m sure there are some things to do around there too. The direct train is very convenient, but Nara Park is about 20min walk from the station when you arrive so it would probably not be a great rainy day activity. The deer park was just as magical this time as it was last time, and this time I brought a selfie stick too for that perfect deer photo!

Overall, I still think Kyoto is a worthwhile place to visit. There are many old, odd and interesting things scattered around Japan, but Kyoto has a lot of them all in one small area, which can’t be beat.

#112 Nara, Japan

I feel kind of sad for Nara, because it’s actually an entire Prefecture, and most foreign tourists (including me) only make time to go to one tiny area – Nara (deer) park.

However, the park is amazing. When I went I had spent already spent a few days in Kyoto and Osaka, it was my last day, my feet had blisters and I was physically exhausted. I would recommend against this, and encourage people to try leave some spare time (if they can) so you can relax and truly enjoy things instead of rushing around.

Cost

Entrance to the park and grounds is completely free. You can buy special deer cookies from vendors in the park for 100yen (I bought two packs). Maybe this is a bit mean, but to make the cookies last longer I actually broke them in half and quarters. You hear stories about the deer getting a little irate and attacking you, but I didn’t really see this happen. They’re quite small, and not many have antlers so the obvious thing to do is avoid the antler ones as they’re the ones that will hurt if they try headbutt you. I had a few corner me as I tried to go into one of the gift stalls, but it was more cute nudging than fearing for my safety. *If you have small children you need to be careful and watch them constantly, although the deer are small they could easily knock them over.

The park is also home to the world’s largest wooden structure – a big temple called Todaiji. You have to pay entry to this (500yen), and it is kind of hidden away so if you want to get a photo but not enter it’s a little awkward (but not impossible). Although it wasn’t expensive, I was tired and my main aim of the journey was to take a few deer selfies, which I had accomplished, so I decided not to walk any further and to head back home.

I have found during my travels in Japan (or around the world) that some places can never quite live up to your expectations, or the heavily photoshopped photos all over the internet. However, I am glad to say Nara is not one of these disappointments. The deer park absolutely lives up to expectations, it is magical, peaceful, fun, and quintessentially Japanese. A must-do if you are in Japan.

Access

Nara is easily accessible from both Kyoto and Osaka. I went from Osaka, it took about one hour and cost 800yen, but it usually requires changing trains at one station. From Kyoto it’s also one hour, and there is a direct JR train for 700yen.

To get to the park requires maybe 15min walk, and then walking around the park itself, so factor in a few hours if you want to do this at your leisure (and I would 100% encourage you to bring a picnic). There are shops and restaurants lining the streets from the station to the park, and at the station there is a lot of information for foreign tourists.

#103 Galway town, Ireland

Galway is famous for quite a few historical sites, but the town itself isn't that big. Sometimes it's called a city, but it would be very small in comparison to any European counterparts.

Some of the most well known places are probably big let downs; Eyre Square is literally just a (small) park, The Spanish Arch is literally just a (small) archway.

However, the museum has free entrance and some interesting exhibits, and Salthill would be lovely if it's a nice day (when I went it was incredibly wet and windy - typical West coast weather!).

It's very popular for its nightlife (and food) and has some places (like hostels) you could stay while on your way around the surrounding countryside.

Cathedral, near the University 

Eyre Square

Galway City Museum

The Spanish Arch

#102 Dublin for Free

I love free things, and this capital city is no exception. Dublin is quite small and a lot of things are quite easy to get around on foot. We're often listed as one of Europe's more expensive countries, but as a tourist there is plenty to do that is completely free!

Free Walking Tours
Sandemanns Walking Tours - I thought this was good, it encompassed most of the important information on the city and country as a whole, but it didn't go near O'Connell St which was disappointing.

O'Connell St and the Spire
The real stars of O'Connell St are the GPO (General Post Office) and the statues - many of which still have bullet holes from the 1916 Easter Rising almost 100 years ago (the Rising was the first in many events which eventually led to Irish independence from the British). The Spire is a new addition and a new popular landmark and symbol for Dublin - although it's not much to see, just a really big needle!

Phoenix Park
This is like the biggest metropolitan park in Europe or the world or something, but all you need to know is that it has wild deer and if you're around early in the morning you could spot one (or several)! It's also home to some other places like Dublin Zoo (good but a little expensive I think) and the residence of the President (free - see below).

Aras An Uachtarain (The official residence of the President of Ireland)
This has tours every hour from like 10am to 3pm every Saturday only. It's free, but you should be early to ensure you get a ticket.

Ha'Penny Bridge
This is one of the locations from the book Ulysses by James Joyce, and a short walk from O'Connell St in the city centre.

Ha'Penny Bridge

Leinster House (home of the Irish Parliament)
I haven't got around to this yet, but apparently there are a few tours a day Monday to Friday, but places are limited.

National Gallery of Ireland
I once overheard an American tourist refer to this as "the art centre" which was incredibly offensive. I have zero interest in art, but from what I understand there are some important pieces on display here, and it has a central location too.

Archaeology Museum

National Museum of Ireland - Archaeology
There are three national museums in Dublin (the other two being natural history and fine arts) but this one is the best, and definitely worth a visit. It boasts a big collection of Celtic and viking items, as well as a few famous pieces like the Tara Brooch, Ardagh Chalice and a few 'bog bodies' - bodies preserved for thousands of years in Irish marshland.
Natural History
This is a really old, musty museum full of dead and stuffed animals. Definitely quirky, but quite small and not worth a visit if you only have a limited time.
Fine Arts
Located in an old military barracks. I haven't had time to visit yet, will update when I do!

Chester Beatty Library
This has the worlds largest collection of Kor'ans. Or something like that? I really liked this place, it's modern and the collection is a cool mix of things from around the world.

Trinity College
This place really isn't that special these days - any Irish student can choose to go there if they wish, it's not fee paying, prestigious or only open to really smart people. But it is home to the Book of Kells (it usually costs money to go in - but grab a passing Trinity student as they have free entry and can also bring a guest for free!).

Temple Bar

Temple Bar
There really isn't much to see here, I've heard it being compared to some of the 'old towns' around Europe, but it's definitely not on par with any of these! It's popular for having cobblestoned streets and lots of bars which are incredibly overpriced and popular with tourists.

The Science Gallery
This has exhibits which change every few months, it's interesting but small and again not worth a visit if you have limited time

Irish Museum of Modern Art
I may have already mentioned my indifference towards art, and therefore I haven't made it a priority to visit here yet, so cannot comment on anything except the fact it's free ;)

Docklands

Dublin Docklands
This area was falling apart for many years, but has undergone complete redevelopment and is now home to hundreds of shiny new offices housing international companies like Google and Facebook. The area also boasts the Convention Centre, 3 Arena, and lots of new bridges. If the weathers nice and you have some free time, it would be nice for a stroll.

Shopping
The main places for shopping in South Dublin city are Grafton Street and the adjoining Stephens Green Shopping Centre, while north of the river you should visit Henry Street and the adjoining Ilac and Jervis Shopping Centres.
If you're a fan of Primark/Pennys, you'll find one of the biggest ones in the country on Henry Street, a 5min walk from the Spire on O'Connell St. You'll find Europe's first Forever 21 at Jervis Centre, and the Disney Store is on Grafton St. The main tourist gift store is Carrolls, which have a few locations around the city. Obviously it's overpriced, so maybe check out some of the smaller shops too.

#99 Geocaching: A Real Life Treasure Hunt

I just wrote a post about this over on my personal blog so you can read it over there philippasue.blogspot.ie/2014/12/your-new-favourite-hobby-for-2015

But basically, it's a treasure hunt. You download the Geocaching app, and then you use the GPS on your smartphone to locate the nearest Geocache. When you find it, depending on the size, there could be a log book for you to sign, and maybe a prize too! Of course, you can also make your own for other people to find too.

I have just discovered it, and I can't wait to get out there and start finding them! You can even use it as a world wide adventure, and use the app to find Geocaches hidden in other cities and places around the world.


To find out more the website is here: geocaching.com

and the (free) android app is here: play.google.com/store/apps/geocaching.intro

A map of Ireland showing all the Geocaches

#63 Oslo, Norway

And this concludes my visit to the 4 big cities of Scandinavia - Copenhagen, Helsinki, Stockholm and Oslo (sorry for ignoring Iceland - it's too far!).

Oslo was the most expensive out of all of them - food is ridiculously priced! Although the museum prices were okay (about 50nok for students anyway) and a one day travel card only cost 80nok, and there are lots of free things to do too. In general, there isn't a huge amount to do and because it's so expensive I would probably recommend only staying a day or two.


I think the first thing that you notice in Oslo are the skyscrapers. There none in central Stockholm or Copenhagen, and it made a change - it feels like a modern city. Also, it's almost surrounded by wooded hills with houses, which is again different to the other cities.

Shiny!

Ooooh!

The main attractions include the Opera House, which is very close to the central station. I heard there was a great view from the roof, but I didn't realise that you actually walk on the roof. . .it's a great building, although the view isn't that great.

Look!

Casually walking on the roof!

Other attractions include the National gallery which houses the famous Scream painting by Munch (but this was closed for a week from the day we arrived - so unfortunate!), the Nobel Peace Museum (the other Nobel prizes are in Stockholm though) and the Ice Bar.

Then there is Carl Johans Gate which is the main shopping and restaurant street, and that leads up to the Royal Palace. The street is nice, it has a mix of high end stores like Chanel as well as everyday favourites like H&M. The Palace isn't very pretty, but it's worth seeing.

 Carl Johans Gate

The Royal Palace

We managed to see the changing of the guard!

One of the main highlights of Oslo is the Vigeland Sculpture park. It's about 20mins walk from the city centre, but it is really worth it. I am not interested in art, but this was very pretty and really interesting (and some of them were funny).

On closer inspection, the pillar is a mass of bodies. . .

 And here are just some pictures of around the city:

Nice street

Nice fountain

Norwegian Parliament

National Gallery

So Olso was nice, it wasn't fantastic but it was a nice city and I had an enjoyable time there, and would recommend a visit. If I had to pick a favourite out of the four cities, I would probably say Copenhagen, then Stockholm, then Oslo, then Helsinki (although I only spent a few hours in Helsinki, so maybe I didn't see enough to like it!).

#56 Culture Night in Stockholm + Weather Report

Just a quick update on the weather; when I first arrived here 3 months ago, there were mounds of snow everywhere and it snowed heavily almost every day. Then, about a month ago, it began to snow less and the temperatures rose a little. Now, nearly all of the snow has melted and although the trees are still bare, you can see green grass starting to sprout. It has rained a little, but there are blue skies nearly everyday. Today in Stockholm it is +13 degrees, while when I first arrived it was -13! I think Spring has finally arrived in Stockholm. . . .

Yesterday, Saturday 20th April was Culture Night in Stockholm. This mean that almost every museum and gallery in Stockholm had free entry and special events from 6pm until midnight. Here are some of the places I visited:

Ethnography Museum (Etnografiska Museet)
Located at MuseiParken, Bus 69 from Sergels Torg

To answer your first question, ethnography is like the study of people and culture. This museum was modern and interesting, it had exhibitions on ancient tribes, Vietcong, Native Americans, Japan, Australia, Greenland etc. It was a fun and interesting place to explore the world, and I would recommend a visit. Entrance is usually around 100kr.

The Royal Mews (Hovstallet)
Located near Nybroplan, take tram from Sergels Torg

To answer another question, the Royal Mews is the transport section for ceremonial events for the Royal Family. Here you can see the Kings Horses, (as well as pet them) and the carriages and cars they use, and learn about when they have been used. A nice, interesting place that is not well known in Stockholm.

The Mediterranean and Near-Eastern Antiquities Museum (Medelhavs Museet)
Located beside the Royal Opera House, take bus 69 to Gustav Adolfs Torg

I only visited the museum briefly, but it isn't very big. It has lots of ancient Greek things, as well as an Egypt exhibition (which was closed). It's a nice place to visit, but unless you have a particular interest I wouldn't recommend it so much.

The Medieval Museum (MedeltidsMuseet)
Located under the bridge beside the Royal Palace. Bus 69 to Gustav Adolfs Torg.

I think this could be another one of Stockholm's hidden gems. It doesn't look like much from the outside, but once you enter this place is remarkable. It boats the only remaining part of the old Stockholm city wall, part of an ancient boat, as well as wax figures, a whole section layed out to look like a medieval street, and even a gambling games room with giant chess and dice games, as well as others.

The Royal Palace (Kungliga Slotten)
Located at the edge of Gamla Stan. Take bus 69 to Gustav Adolfs Torg or walk from the metro.

I was disappointed with the Royal Palace. I thought there were going to be more special events than on a usual day, but to me it was overcrowded and average, with a 20 minute waiting line to get in. You're not allowed take flash pictures, so most of them came out awful. You saw some random rooms, but I found it was nothing spectacular. There were people walking around in costume though which was fun.

Finally, there were also some old buses and trams taking you around the museums for free, which was really nice.