#112 Nara, Japan

I feel kind of sad for Nara, because it’s actually an entire Prefecture, and most foreign tourists (including me) only make time to go to one tiny area – Nara (deer) park.

However, the park is amazing. When I went I had spent already spent a few days in Kyoto and Osaka, it was my last day, my feet had blisters and I was physically exhausted. I would recommend against this, and encourage people to try leave some spare time (if they can) so you can relax and truly enjoy things instead of rushing around.

Cost

Entrance to the park and grounds is completely free. You can buy special deer cookies from vendors in the park for 100yen (I bought two packs). Maybe this is a bit mean, but to make the cookies last longer I actually broke them in half and quarters. You hear stories about the deer getting a little irate and attacking you, but I didn’t really see this happen. They’re quite small, and not many have antlers so the obvious thing to do is avoid the antler ones as they’re the ones that will hurt if they try headbutt you. I had a few corner me as I tried to go into one of the gift stalls, but it was more cute nudging than fearing for my safety. *If you have small children you need to be careful and watch them constantly, although the deer are small they could easily knock them over.

The park is also home to the world’s largest wooden structure – a big temple called Todaiji. You have to pay entry to this (500yen), and it is kind of hidden away so if you want to get a photo but not enter it’s a little awkward (but not impossible). Although it wasn’t expensive, I was tired and my main aim of the journey was to take a few deer selfies, which I had accomplished, so I decided not to walk any further and to head back home.

I have found during my travels in Japan (or around the world) that some places can never quite live up to your expectations, or the heavily photoshopped photos all over the internet. However, I am glad to say Nara is not one of these disappointments. The deer park absolutely lives up to expectations, it is magical, peaceful, fun, and quintessentially Japanese. A must-do if you are in Japan.

Access

Nara is easily accessible from both Kyoto and Osaka. I went from Osaka, it took about one hour and cost 800yen, but it usually requires changing trains at one station. From Kyoto it’s also one hour, and there is a direct JR train for 700yen.

To get to the park requires maybe 15min walk, and then walking around the park itself, so factor in a few hours if you want to do this at your leisure (and I would 100% encourage you to bring a picnic). There are shops and restaurants lining the streets from the station to the park, and at the station there is a lot of information for foreign tourists.

#111 A Note on Solo Female Travel

So, I have done some solo travel in the past, and forsee a lot more in my future. I am young, white, 23 years of age. I like to read blogs and comments about solo woman travel in certain areas before I consider if it's safe to go.

Now, I have to make a distinction. I am very sorry to say, but there is a BIG difference between a woman in her 40s and a woman in her 20s travelling alone. I read so many saying "Go for it, I'm in my 40s and I had no problems" and that is totally unfair. I also think there is an issue with ethnicity - depending on your ethnicity you can easily stand out where you travel.

While the circumstances are similar - threat of mugging, robbery etc, it's not entirely the same situation. Now I don't want to sound rude or impolite or sexist or whatever - but the chances of sexual assault and rape are higher when a young woman is concerned.

It doesn't sound pretty, but that, unfortunately, is just how it is. Older woman get raped, but it is more likely to happen to a younger woman, and I disagree with older woman saying "It's fine" when it was fine for them, but not for someone half their age. I also think younger women are also more easily threatened  - if a 30 year old man starts getting aggressive or creepy it could be difficult to ward him off, whereas if you are his age or older than you might find it easier to dismiss him.

This is not always the case, and I'm not saying older women haven't experienced dangerous situations - I just think they are less likely to, and they have a responsibility to think about younger women and how they could be unintentionally misleading them into dangerous situations.

In terms of ethnicity, for example I have read posts from Asians saying they had no problems while travelling in other parts of Asia. Being white in Asia you stand out a lot more and are far more easily targeted than other Asians. Same as having dark or blonde hair etc. This seems blatantly obvious to me, and people need to be careful about saying something was fine when a white woman could find herself getting catcalled, harassed etc.

I also have a problem with women bashing other women who've had bad experiences. Not everyone is the same, and some people deal with situations and assess threat levels differently, and some just have pure bad luck. If one woman is robbed or has felt threatened while travelling in an area, and you had no problems in that same area, it is not right for you to reprimand her for sharing her negative experience. If she felt threatened, chances are there are other women out there who will share her thoughts.

When we are dealing with lives here, I would prefer to err on the side of caution. If there are valid doubts on my personal safety, I would rather miss out on an amazing opportunity than get robbed, attacked, raped, murdered.

Do the limitations bother me? Yes. If I was a man I wouldn't have to worry about the threat of assault and rape, with men leering or shouting in my direction. I want to travel freely in a world without threat to my safety, but I am cynical and I am realistic. I will not risk my life for the sake of a few Twitter updates and Facebook photos. Or a blog post.

#110 Osaka, Japan

I went to Osaka after spending 2 action packed days in Kyoto. My feet were blistering, my legs had turned to jelly and I was exhausted. But I persevered!!

However, if you have time to spare I would recommend scheduling some down time as I felt very rushed (working in Japan = very little vacation time) and I felt I couldn't properly appreciate all of Osaka because I had overdone it in Kyoto.

OK! So would I recommend it? Yes! It's only a short trip from Kyoto (30mins on the local train) so there is no reason why you can't fit it into your visit to Japan.

While Osaka castle is mentioned as one of the main sights, I didn't think it was the most exciting thing ever, and it was also a little awkward to get to. I also thought Shinsekai wasn't as interesting as the internet had led me to believe.

My favourite area was around Namba and Dontonbori - with all the restaurants and flashing neon lights. We also happened upon a flea market at Shitennoji temple, by far the best of what I've seen in Japan - but it only happens on the 21st and 22nd of each month.

#109 Kyoto, Japan

Recently I went on a trip to Kyoto. I was travelling during a big Japanese holiday, which made a lot of things difficult. Obviously I would highly recommend against this - however it was my only time off work so I had no choice but to go then. I still had a good time, but I would strongly advise you to check the Japanese calendar before you plan a trip, as it is very busy, and trying to get photos or linger in one place is tricky surrounded by crowds (but still very safe, as always).


Getting There
Since I'm already in Japan, this involved me hopping on a shinkansen (bullet train). It was my first time on it (although I had lived in Tokyo for 4 months before) so it was an exciting day!

Big stops like Kyoto, Tokyo, Osaka will have trains that always stop, but the faster trains will skip many smaller stations, so always be sure to check that the train will stop at the station you want before you board.
Kyoto is only 30mins from Osaka by local train so that could be a good location to fly to. While it's easy and quick to get from Tokyo, the bullet train tickets are pretty expensive, at least 10,000yen each way (about €200 round trip). I would also caution people travelling during high season - reserved seats will sell out in advance, and with unreserved seating you could end up standing for 2 hours on a train that cost you €100....



Baggage Storage
Yes, I am giving this it's own heading. Kyoto Station has both lockers and a baggage storage room. Now, there are only a limited number of large lockers that fit big suitcases, and these can be difficult to find and sometimes can be full. Since we stayed in an AirBnB we had no option of leaving our bags and coming back later in the evening, and the lockers were all full, but we did get into baggage storage just in time (they were also full shortly after us). You cannot travel around Kyoto with a suitcase, so please be aware of the storage situation!!


Accommodation
While Kyoto is a big place, it doesn't have the selection of cheap hostels that Tokyo has. There are times when everywhere will book out (check Japanese holidays) and you can bet on the cheapest/highest rated accommodation being booked out on most weekends. I would recommend booking ahead, websites like HostelWorld take only a small 10% deposit so there should be no excuse! We had to use AirBnB because everywhere was sold out, and had a good experience, but I personally would always prefer a hostel.



Sights
Thankfully, most sights were actually free. This includes the treetop KiyoMizu Dera temple and the red gates of Fujimi Inari. The Ginko golden temple you had to pay for, and although it is one of the classic images of Japan I basically just took a photo and left...not so exciting, but one of those things you just have to do I guess.
When we went to Gion it was too busy with crowds to really the street, but we did catch a quick glimpse of a maiko walking down a side street. I could say similar about the Arashiyama bamboo grove...it was too full of people to get a good photo, and also it was disappointing anyway, very small (I think I have more bamboo in my back garden).

#108 AirBnB in Japan

I recently went on a trip to Kyoto and Osaka. It was a Japanese public holiday, and everything booked up quite quickly. With no hostels available, or hotels in our price range, we ventured onto AirBnB.

If you don't know, it's basically an app where you can stay at a persons house. It's usually much cheaper than a hotel or even a hostel, especially if you have a group of 4 or 6. You even can find some unique places, but it all depends on the situation.

So I had downloaded the app and browsed through it before. Cheap prices and quirky locations sounded very tempting. But the thought of actually turning up to a strangers house, and just hoping for the best that it was like the photos, sounded a little scary. However, with no other options available, it was time to take a chance!

I was honestly very nervous about the whole thing (the added language barrier didn't help), and as I had suggested it, if it were to go horribly wrong I would have other people to answer to. The good news is, it was a great success! With a group of 6 of us, it was much cheaper than if we had gone to a hostel, and we had the places to ourselves. Both places were perfectly clean, and I had no complaints (and I do like to complain!).

My biggest recommendation for using AirBnB is to book somewhere which already has a lot of reviews. This is probably the best way for you to decide if the place is actually as listed and therefore a good choice. (I actually accidentally booked a place with no reviews, which really worried me as it is definitely not something I would purposely do, and although it was fine it really isn't worth the risk!)

You pay through the website so if anything does go wrong you can get a refund - it's just the being temporarily homeless thing would be the issue....

Some of the downsides; it was a hassle to be there at the allotted times to be shown around/given the key. We (as a group) had all agreed on times - but when it came down to it we were an hour early for the first place and had to wait outside, and the second place I had to check in by myself because everyone else went for dinner. Not ideal. The freedom of a hotel or hostel is much more advantageous, but I'm sure with some places they leave the key for you under a mat or in the postbox.

As we were a relatively big group having only one key was a bit tricky, we were trying to guess who would be home first, or if we should leave the door open if someone was coming home late and we wanted to sleep. Maybe some places have more than one key though..

Also, don't expect for everything to be exactly as listed. I was so relieved that it wasn't a scam and the houses were in good condition that I didn't care about anything else, but other members of the group were concerned about the wifi information or the "hot tub" they had listed (presumably a bath?). Although if they list it it should be there, it's not a hotel and you're not paying hotel prices. If it's a nice place for a good nights sleep, try not to stress over minor details.

Overall, I would like to stress that point. It's not a hotel, and you're (probably) paying far less than the hotel going rate. So you can't expect hotel service and hotel quality, and to do so would be foolish. If you want hotel quality, book a hotel. But if you want to take a chance, keep an open mind and try something new, then this is a good option for you.


Would I use it again? Honestly, not unless I had to. Although my experience this time was overwhelmingly good, I feel like the casual nature of it will always make me apprehensive, and the fear that if something goes wrong then I'm on the street or paying high rates for a last minute hotel is just too great.
But if everywhere else is booked up, or the prices are looking a little high, I'd definitely venture back on and see what I can find.

#107 Brief Update from Japan

It looks like I will not be getting internet in my apartment for another three weeks or so. But the good news is I`ll have a backlog of posts by the time that happens.

#106 One week to Japan

Well, it's actually five days until I depart Ireland, but my first official day there is next Monday.

Here's where I'm at;

Packing
I just finished packing today, after a few trial runs last week. Basically, I threw in the clothes and stuff I wanted to bring and weighed the cases to see roughly how much space I had. I actually had quite a few kg left in each case which was a great surprise, so I gathered more clothes to put in. Earlier today I packed the cases again and the weight is perfect, happy days! Packing four days in advance basically means I can sleep easily for my last few days in Ireland, and spend it hanging out with family and friends instead of panicking and stressing about it the day before.


Flight details
We're flying Dublin - London, then London - Tokyo with British Airways. They have one free 23kg check in bag, carry on hand luggage and then also a handbag or briefcase. I think 23kg check in is a tiny allowance for moving around the world for a year, but thankfully they only charge €75 for another 23kg bag, so I've got 46kg total, plus a carry on bag and a handbag.

As an interesting side, you can check out what the onboard movies, tv shows etc will be on your flight on your airlines website before you travel (I think most airlines do this). For BA, it's here: http://www.britishairways.com/en-gb/information/entertainment/in-flight-entertainment

Hamamatsu, Shizuoka

Excited to announce this is the exact place I'm going! It's a city of about 800k people, situated on the bullet train line and halfway between Tokyo and Kyoto, about 1hr 30mins from each. The bullet train is expensive, and I can get a bus to Tokyo for much less but it takes like 4-5 hours. Overall, Hamamatsu seems to be a good location for travelling easily around Japan.

Tying up loose ends

There are things to do before leaving your home for any length of time. I decided to get my laptop fixed - it's been overheating and I felt it was easier to get it sorted before I go. I threw out a lot of clothes I hadn't worn in the past year or so (well, gave them to charity shops). I cleaned my room! I'm meeting up with some old friends this week. I guess it just depends on the person what needs to be done.

#105 30 Days to Japan

In case anyone was wondering, I haven't heard any more information regarding Japan and my placement, and therefore there is really nothing to update you with.

I can start the 30 day countdown though, which is exciting!

Obviously it would be more exciting if I knew exactly where I was going in 30 days, but there you go...

In other news, according to the weather it's 7pm in Shizuoka city right now and it is 24 degrees celsius. I now ask you to take a moment and pray that my accommodation has some form of air conditioning. Amen.

#104 Japan on the horizon (again)

Shizuoka City and Mt Fuji

Big news: I'll be moving to Japan in a couple of weeks as part of the JET programme!

JET stands for Japan Exchange and Teaching, and each year brings over thousands of people to live and work in Japan as English teachers.

As you might know I was last in Japan in Autumn 2012 (and have many posts about it on this very blog), so I'm excited to be going back three years later.

When applying with JET you can have three preferences as to where in Japan you want to live, but ultimately you might not end up anywhere near them. In my case I listed a few places on Honshu (the main and biggest island), and while I didn't get any of my top 3, they have placed me in Shizuoka Prefecture (this is in Honshu, about 3 hours drive from Tokyo) so I'm happy.

At the moment I have just been given the prefecture name - so I still have no idea what part I will be in, or whether to expect living in a city or in the middle of nowhere. Most JETs know more details like the name of the city or town they are in, but as a prefectural JET I have to wait an extra few weeks to find out (such is life as a JET - the application process is long and competitive. I applied in Dec 2014!).

Map of Japan

From what I've gathered so far, Shizuoka has a big coastline and quite a lot of nature. To the South the Izu peninsula has amazing islands, beaches and hot springs. Further North and in the centre is Mt Fuji.

Izu Peninsula

There are hundreds of blogs about JET, applying, the process, what to expect when you arrive, etc etc. Many of these people are very capable, so I'm going to leave them to do what they do best. My aim is to use this blog as a vessel to highlight my adventures and some hidden gems in Japan (that aren't Tokyo!). This is a travel blog after all.

#103 Galway town, Ireland

Galway is famous for quite a few historical sites, but the town itself isn't that big. Sometimes it's called a city, but it would be very small in comparison to any European counterparts.

Some of the most well known places are probably big let downs; Eyre Square is literally just a (small) park, The Spanish Arch is literally just a (small) archway.

However, the museum has free entrance and some interesting exhibits, and Salthill would be lovely if it's a nice day (when I went it was incredibly wet and windy - typical West coast weather!).

It's very popular for its nightlife (and food) and has some places (like hostels) you could stay while on your way around the surrounding countryside.

Cathedral, near the University 

Eyre Square

Galway City Museum

The Spanish Arch

#102 Dublin for Free

I love free things, and this capital city is no exception. Dublin is quite small and a lot of things are quite easy to get around on foot. We're often listed as one of Europe's more expensive countries, but as a tourist there is plenty to do that is completely free!

Free Walking Tours
Sandemanns Walking Tours - I thought this was good, it encompassed most of the important information on the city and country as a whole, but it didn't go near O'Connell St which was disappointing.

O'Connell St and the Spire
The real stars of O'Connell St are the GPO (General Post Office) and the statues - many of which still have bullet holes from the 1916 Easter Rising almost 100 years ago (the Rising was the first in many events which eventually led to Irish independence from the British). The Spire is a new addition and a new popular landmark and symbol for Dublin - although it's not much to see, just a really big needle!

Phoenix Park
This is like the biggest metropolitan park in Europe or the world or something, but all you need to know is that it has wild deer and if you're around early in the morning you could spot one (or several)! It's also home to some other places like Dublin Zoo (good but a little expensive I think) and the residence of the President (free - see below).

Aras An Uachtarain (The official residence of the President of Ireland)
This has tours every hour from like 10am to 3pm every Saturday only. It's free, but you should be early to ensure you get a ticket.

Ha'Penny Bridge
This is one of the locations from the book Ulysses by James Joyce, and a short walk from O'Connell St in the city centre.

Ha'Penny Bridge

Leinster House (home of the Irish Parliament)
I haven't got around to this yet, but apparently there are a few tours a day Monday to Friday, but places are limited.

National Gallery of Ireland
I once overheard an American tourist refer to this as "the art centre" which was incredibly offensive. I have zero interest in art, but from what I understand there are some important pieces on display here, and it has a central location too.

Archaeology Museum

National Museum of Ireland - Archaeology
There are three national museums in Dublin (the other two being natural history and fine arts) but this one is the best, and definitely worth a visit. It boasts a big collection of Celtic and viking items, as well as a few famous pieces like the Tara Brooch, Ardagh Chalice and a few 'bog bodies' - bodies preserved for thousands of years in Irish marshland.
Natural History
This is a really old, musty museum full of dead and stuffed animals. Definitely quirky, but quite small and not worth a visit if you only have a limited time.
Fine Arts
Located in an old military barracks. I haven't had time to visit yet, will update when I do!

Chester Beatty Library
This has the worlds largest collection of Kor'ans. Or something like that? I really liked this place, it's modern and the collection is a cool mix of things from around the world.

Trinity College
This place really isn't that special these days - any Irish student can choose to go there if they wish, it's not fee paying, prestigious or only open to really smart people. But it is home to the Book of Kells (it usually costs money to go in - but grab a passing Trinity student as they have free entry and can also bring a guest for free!).

Temple Bar

Temple Bar
There really isn't much to see here, I've heard it being compared to some of the 'old towns' around Europe, but it's definitely not on par with any of these! It's popular for having cobblestoned streets and lots of bars which are incredibly overpriced and popular with tourists.

The Science Gallery
This has exhibits which change every few months, it's interesting but small and again not worth a visit if you have limited time

Irish Museum of Modern Art
I may have already mentioned my indifference towards art, and therefore I haven't made it a priority to visit here yet, so cannot comment on anything except the fact it's free ;)

Docklands

Dublin Docklands
This area was falling apart for many years, but has undergone complete redevelopment and is now home to hundreds of shiny new offices housing international companies like Google and Facebook. The area also boasts the Convention Centre, 3 Arena, and lots of new bridges. If the weathers nice and you have some free time, it would be nice for a stroll.

Shopping
The main places for shopping in South Dublin city are Grafton Street and the adjoining Stephens Green Shopping Centre, while north of the river you should visit Henry Street and the adjoining Ilac and Jervis Shopping Centres.
If you're a fan of Primark/Pennys, you'll find one of the biggest ones in the country on Henry Street, a 5min walk from the Spire on O'Connell St. You'll find Europe's first Forever 21 at Jervis Centre, and the Disney Store is on Grafton St. The main tourist gift store is Carrolls, which have a few locations around the city. Obviously it's overpriced, so maybe check out some of the smaller shops too.

#101 London

LONDON!! So just before Christmas I went on a trip to London, and I have only just got around to telling you about it. Sorry!

I went from Ireland and got the bus/boat over - it was cheap and it was good. The ferry was delayed by about 2 hours on the way over (bad weather), but I had two seats to myself on the bus (each way!) and we made regular stops at petrol stations so you could take a smoke break, pee, stretch your legs, grab a coffee etc. For the €53 it cost I can't fault it and would definitely recommend it! (Read more about it here; travelbanter.blogspot.ie/yes-it-is-cheaper-than-flying).

It wasn't my first time in London, but it was the first time as an adult so I could decide what I wanted to do! As you know I had a small budget, and I'm not fond of paying for things, so all of what I did was free! This included Camden markets, Big Ben and Houses of Parliament, Trafalgar Square, Tower of London and Tower bridge, British Museum, Harrods, Baker St, Buckingham Palace, Oxford St, Victoria and Albert Museum, looking at Christmas lights etc etc.

In fact, once you get your transport sorted (some form of Oyster card - it's not cheap but it's 100% necessary!) you can actually visit many of the major famous places in London for free. If you're thinking of going inside somewhere, check review sites ahead of your visit, as some of them will give you a good indication if it's overpriced and mediocre.

It being Christmas we also went to Winter Wonderland at Hyde Park. And it was wonderful! It was absolutely packed full of people, craft stalls, food stalls and amusement park rides. It really was a winter wonderland, and entry was free which was the best part!

I was lucky with the weather, and the day we decided to do the outdoors sightseeing (Big Ben etc) it was blue skies! I don't think you need a bus tour or to pay in to most things - you can pretty much find all you want to do quite easily once you work out the tube!

 

I cannot remember where this was!

 

British Museum (free!)

Harrods at Christmas

Festive ice skating 

Trafalgar Square

Big Ben

London Eye

Oxford St

Hyde Park Winter Wonderland

#100 The Centenary Post and the First of 2015

I can't believe I haven't updated this since last year! I recently moved house and job and I also had a terrible cold that has just about cleared up now, and those are my excuses.

Funds are still low so have no plans for travel anytime soon, but now I live in the Irish capital of Dublin I hope to start promoting it and giving some tips here.