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Monday 29 February 2016

#115 Puerto Galera, Philippines

This is an island resort close to the capital of the Philippines, Manila. To get there, it’s a 2 hour bus and 1 hour boat ride.

It is said to be the “Poor Man’s Boracay” and is popular with the city folk as a short weekend break, and with foreigners as a good place for cheap diving in coral reefs.

Having found incredibly cheap flights to Manila, but having realized there’s not so much to do in Manila, I started looking in the area for some vitamin Sea (cringe, sorry).

There are two main resorts in Puerto Galera – White Beach and Sabang Beach. Sabang is popular for diving and nightlife, and White Beach is popular for thenbeach. I stayed at Muelle Port, which is halfway between the two.



So – it was nice. I wouldn’t say it could rival any of the tropical islands further south, but it was cheap and easy to get to so it has that in it’s favour. If you want to do diving I have only heard and read positive things – but actually I can’t swim so that wasn’t an option for me!

I didn’t go to Sabang, but I saw it from the boat - it looked cluttered and crowded. I went to White Beach and the sand wasn’t very nice, but it photographs well. It is lined with restaurants so I had lunch at one – and I was hassled by people selling things and women begging. I saw a child rummaging through someone’s bag and a local woman give a rather suspicious looking massage to a middle age white man. There were very few people actually on the beach and almost no one in the water.

The island is beautiful and looks amazing from the boat – but when you arrive you have people snatching your bags (for a tip) and tricycle men ripping you off. Make sure you have small change – I didn’t and it made things difficult. I asked the tricycle man before we left how much it would be and he purposely ignored me and drove off. When we arrived he tried to charge me 150 pesos, when I knew in advance from the hotel it should be 50. I tried to give him 50 but he refused, he said 100 I refused, he said 70 I still refused – so then he got angry and grabbed my suitcase and said he would take me back to the port. So I gave him 70. What annoyed me was he was so angry and rude, when all I was trying to do was give him the appropriate amount. He had assumed I would be a stupid foreigner and give him whatever he asked for. This mean and unwelcoming spirit upset me, and was actually a key factor of my time in the Philippines. There was no hospitality, everyone was out to get me and it was a battle everytime. It’s not a happy or relaxing environment.


Getting There

The island is called Oriental Mindoro. I got a JAM bus (be careful, my taxi driver tried to drop me off at JAC bus, although they are nearby) from Manila for 167 pesos to Batangas port, and then a boat. On the way I took Minolo (MSL), on the way back I took Father and Sons (FSL), and they were the exact same. They offer the same service for the same price, so I would say go with whichever leaves at the time that suits you.

I would highly recommend you sit in the middle of the boat. While the sides can give you a better view, it can also get you wet from splashing. Also, when the boat both arrives and leaves into Batangas there are small children who dive from a small row boat nearby and climb around the sides of the boat, reaching in and poking at the people sitting on the sides.
On my return at the port I was ushered to a private looking blue bus. I said I wanted JAM but they said it wasn’t leaving for another hour (probably a lie, you never know). I reluctantly followed the crowds and got on this bus – which I would recommend. It was the same price (167 pesos) except it had much more comfortable seating, and it played Marvel movies (AntMan and Avengers 2) on the journey. So ask at the port how much it is, and check it out – if you don’t like it just get off.
 
Also to mention, my hotel told me FSL had a free shuttle service to the port, so I opted for that. However, when I went outside it was a man on a motorcycle….So he put my small suitcase at the handlebars and I hopped on the back. This was my first time on a motorcycle – nevermind without a helmet/protective gear and on roads that have seen better days. I was traumatized but survived – but for future reference if you’re a solo traveler this could be the transport method.


Friday 26 February 2016

#114 Manila, Philippines

One of the infamous Jeepneys!
Monument with the national flag




As a young, particularly pale white woman, I didn’t enjoy my time in the Philippines. This could have been different had I also been travelling with a male partner, as did other young foreigners I saw, but I was alone.

I don’t dress sexy, and on the average day I would never turn heads walking down the street. I live in Japan so I’m well used to being an outsider and getting side-eyed when they think you’re not looking. But in Manila I encountered staring and leering on a scale like never before.

On my first day there I was walking beside a busy road and I suddenly realized all the men in the trucks and vans were beeping their horns and yelling at me. I never felt more disgusted in my life. From that moment onwards I felt self-conscious and unsafe.

I couldn’t handle the taxi’s. Also on my first day I was at a mall, and trying to avoid the worst of rush hour waited until around 6.30pm and then decided to head back to my hostel. Being a Friday evening, there were people lining everywhere trying to get jeepneys and taxis, and I ended up standing near a slum with children running around me, but there was a city hall employed traffic warden who was kind and said he would help me find a taxi. Even with the city hall employee I still felt uncomfortable and unsafe and just wanted to get back to my hostel asap, and I had to wait maybe 15mins. It doesn’t sound like a long time, but it was hell not knowing when one would finally show, or if I was going to get mugged or hassled by the slum children (which sounds terrible, but it was scary). I think because it was a Friday it was especially bad, but it made me nervous going out again in case I had similar issues trying to get home again.

Crowds trying to get home on a Friday evening

Getting on/off buses etc. there are people grabbing at your suitcases and asking you where you’re going and if you make the mistake of answering, one will grab your bag and push you in whatever direction and then it’s too late when they rip you off. It’s disorientating and you don’t have two seconds to try figure it out for yourself, they’re on you like leeches, and you have people asking for a tip and you’re not even sure what they did to assist you in the first place.

For the taxi’s they say you should make them turn on the meter because it’s cheaper – but actually I found it was easier for them to impose a rip off price at first, that way at least they have no reason to go the long way around or delay you further.

SM City mall - not one of the biggest, but nice
I would talk about the cultural things, but I didn’t see them. I tried to go to Intra Muros the first morning, but the taxi driver said it was too hot and suggested an aquarium, I politely said “Oh yeah maybe later” but before I knew it he had dropped me at the aquarium. This is when I tried to walk to Intra Muros and failed. So I ended up at a mall and went to the cinema, so I could just get away from it all. The next two days I spent on a nearby island resort, and when I returned on my last day in Manila I had planned to try see Intra Muros again, or go to one of the famous giant malls. Neither of these happened – I was sick from the worry and stress. I knew I was wasting an opportunity, but I couldn’t deal with the stares and the people ripping me off. I didn’t even eat that day because the thoughts of even walking down the street and going to a restaurant was too much. This is very unlike me, so it really emphasized the impact. I just wanted to leave.





I know many people have travelled the Philippines and had very enjoyable times, but this was my experience. I’m glad I had the experience, but I could never recommend a solo white woman to travel here. 
While you might not be in immediate danger of rape or mugging, the stares and leers and the constant overcharging leave a stressful and distasteful impression of the people and the country. You’re constantly self-aware and on your guard, ready for the next argument. For me, it just wasn't worth the bother.