#20 Transport in Tokyo

To get anywhere in Tokyo, you have two options - the train or the subway. You could also factor in walking, bus and bike. But the first two are the ones you will use all the time. Car and taxi aren't options.

Here's some general info, as well as some hints and tips I've picked up:

Trains and Subways: 

Platform sign for the Yamanote Line around Tokyo.

There is one website you need, www.hyperdia.com
This website tells you how to get from one station to another, all you need to know are the names. It gives you different options, prices, and the timetables of the trains. Basically, it is a life saver and I use it all the time here.

Now, there are some things you should know. In Tokyo, everything is in English (including the platform signs and all the main trains have English signs and announcements for the next stop), so don't worry about that. Also, there is no such thing as a return ticket - everything is one way. This also makes it more expensive. And you should know the trains/subways aren't cheap. On a typical day going to and from any place will cost you about 1000yen.

The trains are cheaper, especially the JR ones (which are most of the ones around Tokyo). Tokyo Metro and the private subway lines always seem to be more expensive, so if you can, try get the trains for all or most of your journey.

The trains and subways run from around 5am - 12am. If you are caught without a train, there are hundreds of 24 hour cafes and restaurants on every corner you can just go into and sit down/sleep. I believe the Japanese are usually far too polite to come and wake you up.

The trains and subways aren't as crazy as you see on the internet, with a hundred people squished against the glass. Mostly. Weekdays from 7-9am is the only time you will see this, and I've been on these trains, and it is not a pleasant experience. Going home around 6-8pm is quite busy, but not near as bad as the mornings.
And don't worry about being groped - you probably won't be. I've been here two months and it's never happened to me or anyone I know, and talking to women who have lived here for years they say the same thing - it's not as common as the media would have you think.
Don't ever expect to get a seat. It is a rare and joyous occasion when this happens.

The Suica and Pasmo cards:
If you are going to be in Tokyo for more than a few days, I would recommend one of these. From what I understand these cards are both the same, but since I have the Suica card I'll give you more detail on that. Basically it is a type of credit card that's topped up with money, and then used to get the trains/subway. It is much easier and faster to just scan it as you go onto the platform than having to calculate fares and buy tickets each time. You can also use it to buy things at a lot of vending machines, as well as some supermarkets.

The Suica card cost me 2,000 yen, but this was with 1,500 yen on it to use, so really the price is only 500 yen, which is very cheap. It also gives you an option to put your name on it so it can be returned to you if lost (or they will give you a new card with the amount you had on the last card). I bought mine at a ticket machine in central Tokyo, although I am not sure if every station has these machines. Every station has machines where you can top up the card, and if there's a problem (such as you have no money left and the barriers won't let you leave. . .don't worry it happens often!) you can go to the help desk and they will sort it out. It's free to top up and use the card, so I'd see no reason for not having one (although my friend still doesn't, unbelievable!).

Car, bus, taxi. . . .
Driving in Tokyo is madness. Don't do it.
I've never gotten a taxi but they are supposed to be pretty expensive, and only to be used when you need to (such as if the train isn't running).
I've never gotten a bus either, but I always see them around Tokyo, so it definitely could be an option.
Bikes are pretty cheap here and you always see people cycling around the outskirts of Tokyo, not so much in the middle of the city. You can't put a bike on a train subway or bus though.


Walking
As with every city, you will walk until you can walk no more! Unless you're like some of the local girls and can walk comfortably in your six inch heels, comfortable shoes and blister plasters are a must. Crocs are very popular in Japan, especially during the summer, and now I know the reason why.

#19 Don't go here

Imperial Palace Gardens

This is the one place I've been to in Tokyo that was a total let down! The Palace is behind big walls and gates and surrounded by a moat so you can't actually seen anything.

I'd read about some bridge, when I got there I walked past it twice until I realised that was it. . . .it was nice but I wouldn't have deemed it worthy of particular attention!

Nijubashi bridge: just like any other bridge

I then went to the East Gardens, which also left something to be desired. The highlight was this, a big foundation of where a tower used to be. The rest of the garden consisted of gravel walkways with trees and bushes around, not so exciting!

It was pretty big, to be fair

If you walk towards the Palace from Toyko station, you will come across a lovely little park with stone seats and fountains. At the time I was there, there was actually a wedding going on in the little buidling there. The fountains change every few minutes and it was nice to sit there and watch them, but again I'd only recommend if you were passing through. 

Nothing spectacular, but nice all the same

And finally, the only other thing of importance I could find in the area was Tokyo station, and the famous Tokyo Station Hotel, which is being advertised everywhere since it has just been refurbished and reopened.

It's a nice building alright.

So to conclude, although free, a visit to the Japanese Imperial Palace should not be high on your to-do list on a visit to Tokyo.

#18 Shinjuku

Shinjuku

Japan's a big place like. . . .

This is a view from the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Buildings in Shinjuku. On the 45th floor there is a free observatory, open until 11pm. I went there twice, once by myself during the day, and again with my friends in the evening, and on both occasions the views are spectacular! The pictures really don't do it justice.

That's Skytree in the middle background

At night it's fantastic to see the lights

Also in Shinjuku is the red light district, or Kabukicho as it more commonly known. While the area has two big main streets filled with lots of cafes, restaurants and karaoke bars, once you go down the side streets it gets a little seedy.
Apparently it is one of the few places in Tokyo where if you are a man you can get mugged, and if you are a woman led into some dangerous situations. . . .I went there at around 5pm Saturday just as it was getting dark, and sure enough I was approached by an English speaking man who wanted to bring me to a Japanese school, coincidentally down some back street. . . I kept walking and told him next time, I had to meet a friend. He followed for a minute or so and then stopped. So my advice would be to travel in a group and keep your eyes peeled, if you do that you'll have a great time checking out some of the more interesting establishments.

It all looks nice and innocent here

Again at night, the signs and lights are amazing

This was my favourite 

Also Shinjuku has lots of shops, so it makes a good day out even if you intend to see no naked women! ;)

#17 Japanese Souvenirs

For a 2016 update please visit my more recent post here: Cheap Japanese Souvenirs

Although I live next to Tokyo, and work there most days, I haven't come across many souvenir shops! I mean you can buy lots of Japanese things that are cool and maybe you can't get in your country, but it's difficult to find shops that sell things like postcards and keychains, the usual Westerner souvenir! I found in many places the goods are often focused on Japanese tourists and not foreign travellers, so there are huge phone charm and biscuit selections but no fridge magnets or keychains! In addition, any souvenirs I have found aren't exactly cheap, and if I'm to bring things home for my family and friends at Christmas I need them to be a little more reasonable! So I'm on the hunt to find some of Tokyo's best souvenirs!

I went to Harajuku recently, and situated there is one of the biggest Daiso's (100yen store) in Tokyo. Although it seemed to have alot of what I've seen elsewhere, I did find some well priced souvenirs for 105-210 yen! Among these I bought two fridge magnets and a phone charm of a kokeshi doll, a japanese flag and fan, two packets of Japanese stickers, a Japanese headband, socks used for the traditional japanese sandals, and the carp flags used to celebrate Children's Day.

Here's some of my booty

I have also seen things like shot glasses, green tea pots and mugs etc in other Daiso shops, as well as other 100 yen shops. Sometimes you will find a wonderful selection in other 100 yen shops that aren't part of the Daiso chain. You can often get things with Hello Kitty on them (I got a rubix cube), as well as Doraemon, AnPanMan and Ultraman (all Japanese childrens characters). I've also found Disney items too. Most 100 yen shops have a food section, and here you can probably pick up pasta with Pikachu on the box, dried squid tentacles to frighten your friends, or some Hello Kitty themed chocolate!

Akihabara Electronics District also has some good tourist shops on their upper floors and basements. They aren't cheap, and be sure to shop around because you will easily find 500 yen difference in lots of goods between shops. Some of the items on sale here are "I love Japan" t-shirts, sake shot glasses, kimonos and yukatas, key chains, fridge magnets, fans, umbrellas, and lot's of other souvenir items! These shops also say things like "tax free" but you must have your passport, and it usually only applies if you spend at least 10,000 yen.

DonKi (in Shibuya, Shinjuku, Akihabara) has lots of weird Japanese items but I found it wasn't particularly cheap.

So, as a basic rule, enter every 100 yen store you see. You're likely to find something super cheap and really cool that will amaze your family and friends!

[Update: Head to Asakusa. There's a whole street there in front of the big shrine with nothing but tourist stalls and shops. Also see my blog post #21 Ginza and crazy Japanese souvenirs! for some Harry Potter and Star Wars Chopsticks and sushi candles!]

#16 Japanese Festivals

The key to having a blog is to update regularly, something I have been failing to do. And now, for an update on festivals.

Japanese Festivals:

A float from the Nebuta Aomori festival

Since I arrived in late August and am only staying until a few days before Christmas, I am caught in a festival dry season in Japan. All of the major festivals seem to happen just after Christmas, spring and then the summer. However, I seem to stumble across many smaller regional ones that happen here in Tokyo.

15th September 2012: One such was the Nebuta festival, which is from the Aomori region of Japan, although it is celebrated to a lesser extent in all around Japan, including Tokyo, where I went to the Nakanobu version. It was my first Japanese festival and it was wild - there were children, adults and elderly people all wandering around together in the most outrageous costumes (they looked like rags thrown on together). There were japanese drums and flute-like instruments and the little area was alive with music. The floats were made out of paper with a light underneath, like a giant lantern. I appeared to be the only foreigner there, and an old man actually asked to take a picture with me, which was sweet. He also gave me a little bell with ribbons on it to stick on my tshirt! He could speak English quite well and asked where I was from and what I was doing in Japan, etc.

Lady Gaga would be envious of this head gear

 One of the six floats

A woman playing one of the (really loud) drums

6th October 2012: I also stumbled across a festival in Kawasaki city, Kanagawa (the prefecture right beside Tokyo, only about half an hour away by train). I have no idea what it was called or why it was happening, and I was too chicken to use my petty Japanese skills to find out (I can successfully say what I want, it's just understanding the answer is the problem!). There were no floats when I was there, but there were lots of music and dancers, and I managed to get a few pictures. 

It was so Japanese-y

All the men came out shouting some chant and dancing crazy

This was a frantic, very jump-y dance!

20th October 2012; One of the more well known festivals, I went to the Kawagoe Festival in Saitama, north of Toyko. There were lots and lots of food and nick-knack stalls selling traditional Japanese food and sweets (as well as Western favourites like burgers and cotton candy). The highlight was the massive 3-tier floats being pulled by hoards of people (including me and my friend! A Japanese man we work with was a part of it and allowed us to pull the float, although there were so many people we really just walked beside it). On the floats there are dolls on top, and on the bottom people in kabuki masks dancing and playing drums. Generally the focus was more on the floats, unlike the previous festivals I went to that had alot of people dancing and playing instruments around the floats.

Up close

From far away

Towards the end, all the floats were brought near each other and a sort of "dance off" ensued

#15 Typhoon Afternoon

Once again it may appear as if I was neglecting this poor little blog (and perhaps I was) but I've been working on ideas to make it less crappy. But first for an important weather update! Right outside now a typhoon is whirling around! (that is an exaggeration and I apologise profoundly). It's the first one since I got here in mid August, which I am told is strange. I was unlucky (or lucky!) enough to have experienced a particularly long, hot, humid, Japanese summer. The weather in the past week has gradually gotten colder, wetter, as well as more overcast and windier. I was talking to a friend of mine here and we both agreed that last Thursday was the first night neither of us woke up in a sweat at around 4am, fumbling for the air-con remote.

Anyway, back to the typhoon. For those unsure, a typhoon is a hurricane, it just has a different name in different regions of the world (or something. . .contact a meteorologist if you want to know more?). This is a screen shot of two different pages of the Japan Meteorological Agency. There they have lots of weather warnings and information on storms and earthquakes, and in perfect English too!

As you can see, basically all of Japan is screwed. Especially the Kanto/Tokyo area.

It's now 11pm and the weather's pretty wild out there, although it is dry. I can't imagine what it'll be like when it rains (although I'm sure I'll wake up with the noise). It was a nice bright morning, then around 4pm it became darker and it was getting windy, shortly after there was some heavy rain but it died off to a light rain after a few minutes (I sound like a weather reporter here, I apologise). From pretty much then onwards the wind has just been gradually picking up. I'm still not exactly sure when the worst is going to hit, I think it's anytime from now until tomorrow morning. 

From my knowledge this isn't a particularly big one so I'm not too worried, but every now and then a gust of wind does seem to catch my flimsy Leopalace door. This isn't a new building though so it has withstood previous typhoons and should therefore be nice and safe. . .or so I assume.

UPDATE: It never did rain, and the 'typhoon' was a big disappointment in all. When I woke up the next morning it was the brightest, hottest day its been in awhile. Silly Japanese weather!

#14 A Quick Update from a Tokyo Tourist

So I have visited Tokyo Dome, Akihabara, Tokyo Tower and Shibuya (in that order too). And I have noticed a pattern emerging - they're boring. Well not the attractions, just going by yourself. My plan is to go alone and check it out, and then to go back with a group. While at Tokyo Dome I didn't go on any of the attractions, I didn't go up Tokyo Tower and I didn't buy anything in Akihabara or Shibuya. This has kept costs down while allowing to wander freely around these places without having the annoyance of only doing what the group wants. It means you get more of what you want done, but it also means it can get boring. It's just not as exciting as if there was someone beside you you can share the moment with. Nonetheless, here are some quick updates of what I've been doing:

Tokyo Dome - suprisingly big (Credits: ME!)

I thought Tokyo Dome was just a big concert area, plus a ferris wheel and rollercoaster. When I got to the entrance it said 'Tokyo Dome City' - and by god is it a city! There's a big shopping area, arcade games, children's amusements, a haunted house, an aqua centre, restaurants. . .the place is big, and it is good. The nice part is you can walk around without spending a yen, but then again if you do decide to go on the amusements you could be forking out about 10,000yen per attraction.

Akihabara (aka Electric Town)

The only thing I bought in Akihabara was a little travel  iron for about 1000yen. And it doesn't really work. On another note, the lights at night are great and the people shouting at you to come in and buy something is fantastic. There is a wonderful selection of just about every electrical item ever invented from lighting to fans to cameras to rice cookers. From the cameras I looked at I could tell that most of the models weren't available in Ireland, and these were more advanced. I'm planning on going back so I'll research the prices then - but from what I'm told most items are only up to 10% cheaper than at home, which isn't the massive discounts some people think are available.

Tokyo Tower, like the Eiffel tower except with a temple

I've been to the Eiffel Tower in Paris, France. And Tokyo Tower is a carbon copy. Nonetheless, it is a fantastic structure and well worth a visit. It is situated in Shiba park, and right behind a massive temple, Zojo-ji. On the evening I went, there were film trucks and crew tidying up after filming there for some upcoming Japanese movie. So you can see it's a pretty cool place. Also around there is a Japanese graveyard (surrounded by cats, it was a little creepy) and, also creepy, were hundreds of statues covered decorated with wool hats and scarves. These Jizo dolls represent all miscarried, aborted and stillborn children in Japan.

At Tokyo Tower, just in case you  get bored of the amazing view or the fact you're at Tokyo Tower, is an aquarium, wax museum and amusements centre.

Shibuya shopping district

Shibuya is pretty expensive. While it does have massive shops like H&M, Forever 21 and Uni Qlo, you'll find these once again have similar stock and prices to at home. The Shibuya 109 centre is great for a look to see what's going on with Tokyo fashion - but that's all. The little boutiques in there aren't for those on a budget, to say the least. There are lots of little market type shops around the streets selling things such as shoes, but I still found they weren't cheap. If you're interested in fashion it is a great place to go, and if you're not it's still a good way to fill in a day, looking at all the shops and wandering through the winding streets. The famed Shibuya crossing - the busiest pedestrian crossing in the world apparently - isn't that exciting. After being in Tokyo for a few days you get used to the masses of people surrounding you everywhere. So when you're walking across a road with another 800 people it doesn't feel particularly special. However, if you were looking at it from a height it would probably look good. At the train station you can also see the statue of Hachiko, the dog who waited at the station for 9 years after his dead owner failed to return.

Note: I picked what places to go purely out of convenience of location as opposed to real desire - there is so much to see and do in Tokyo it is hard to make a list. I also want to save things that require an entry fee (such as Ueno Zoo and Skytree) for when I have friends with me. 

I happened to be on the train to work when I looked out the window and noticed the top of Tokyo Dome so the next day I decided to get off the train there, the same with Tokyo Tower. Akihabara is a popular place to transfer between train lines, so I was already in the area and decided to stay a while. I was meeting a friend at Shibuya so that's how I ended up there. Other locations such as Shinjuku and Harajuku have their own stations so they are convenient to find on the maps.

#13 Prices in Japan 2012

Whilst it may look like I've been slack at this blog, I have actually been cooking up something quite delicious. In many senses of the word. The one thing (actually that's a lie, there are many, many, many things) that annoys me about the internet is that it's hard to find relevant information. An example of such is the prices for things in Tokyo, or Japan in general for this year. Any ones I found seemed a little outdated, so I have begun compiling a list of the 2012 prices I have seen for food and other items over here, in shops such as 7/11, Lawson, Family Mart, Fuji, Maruetsu, Hac etc.

¥100 Store 

(The most popular one is called Daiso, but others are around. Also in reality everything is ¥105 because of tax)

Noodles, Sweets

Arts and crafts (and I mean lots)

Bathroom and toiletries

Every type of household item (bowls, hangers, dustbins, brushes, lunchboxes, etc etc)

Random items
*There are also some Lawson Store 100 convenience stores around (a version of the regular Lawson store), where nearly all the food is ¥105 or ¥210, and they have milk, meat, vegetables, snacks, bread etc).

Groceries

Generally, fruit is expensive to buy in stores, but cheaper if you get it from stalls (although I think more likely to go off faster). There are lots of fish (the prices can be quite reasonable considering there is so much choice), lots of noodles and not so much meat. Most common is beef and then maybe pork, but it can be difficult/pricey to get chicken or anything like that. Breakfast cereal is expensive, bread is thicker than home and tastes a little sweeter. There are lots of breads available such as croissants, cakes, rolls (like the hotdog buns), cheese slices and pizza slices. These are all well priced, usually no more than ¥150. There are food items available from UK/USA (like ketchup or sauces), but while at first you may be excited to see it, after you catch a glimpse of the price you'll see it's far more expensive.

Sample prices include:
Instant ramen cup ¥185
Small vegetable mix ¥100
Small frozen veg (such as corn) ¥100
900ml Porari Sweat (energy drink) ¥168
1l water ¥168
1l milk ¥198
Breakfast cereal (small box) ¥208
Curry soba noodles 3x pack ¥198
Tomato pasta sauce ¥298
Spaghetti ¥298

Household items (you can probably get some of these at the Daiso)
Dove shower gel ¥258

Hand soap ¥298

Washing detergent ¥198

Dove facial cleanser ¥980

Listerine mouthwash ¥398

Herbal essences conditioner ¥298

Kitchen cleaner ¥98

I got all of these for less than ¥200 at a stall

Ready meals: You can also get ready meals at places like 7/11, and they are fresh, tasty and really cheap. Prices are around ¥398. Apparently they contain lots of additives and stuff, so although great value and super convenient I wouldn't recommend them as a long term option.

Rice and some tasty chicken balls

Dining out

Fast food places such as McDonalds are pretty much the same as at home (about ¥600 for a meal), pricewise and menuwise. Generally you can get quite a decent meal in a restaurant for around ¥1000-1500. Sukiya is a ramen place with prices at like ¥500, and is renowned as one of the cheapest places to eat in Japan. If you're in Tokyo I recommend Chikara Meshi, it's really cheap, the food is really tasty, and I basically used to eat there all the time. A lot of restaurants have wax models and prices of the food outside, and inside the menu will likely have pictures, so if your Japanese isn't good you can really just point. Alternatively, there are even more restaurants that just have a vending machine as you walk in, so you press the picture of what you want and put in your money, then you get a voucher and you hand it to the waiter - no speaking involved!

'Ebi fillet-o' or a shrimp burger, one of the menu differences

Some plastic deserts in a cafe window

Vending machines

Unlike in Western countries, vending machines in Japan sell only drinks, no food. There are exceptions, but as you find at least one vending machine per every few steps (no exaggeration, they really are EVERYWHERE) you will notice they will not have food. The main drinks are water, energy drinks and types of tea and coffee in cans (which are hot!!). Some machines are only ¥100, but you will find prices in most are around ¥120-¥160.

#12 Leopalace 21

Leopalace. A place of grandiose! Well. . . .it has a nice name! Who doesn't want to live in a Palace?! For those familiar, you will know that it is affordable and small, but nice accommodation in Japan. And it is where I find myself now.

Table, wardrobe, bed up top with front door in background and bathroom/kitchen on the left

Yeah. . . this is your kitchen now! Hope you like boiling and microwaving

This is the outside of my building. . .I've seen nicer ones around

The loft! It had pretty big built in storage on the left

The microwave and fridge (living room on left, toilet + shower room on right)

the toilet and shower room are different rooms

The doors kinda look like cabins on a boat or something

It comes with a tv, internet, air con, fridge and freezer, microwave, two hobs, and a washing machine. The 'kitchen' is tiny, although the floor space in the living room is substantial as you sleep in the loft and the table can be folded away. I have a wooden floor all through my apartment, although everyone else I know has a carpet in their living area and I know of others who have tatami. 

View from the sliding doors

There's also a toilet and wet room with sink/shower. You can hang your clothes up in here and put on a heat setting which will dry them, or you can leave them outside (not advised if you live on the ground floor, although I imagine this is largely based on rumours and they are highly unlikely to get stolen). The shower/bath is very good quality, and the toilet has a little sink on top that runs every time you flush (oh Japan!). 

While on the outside it looks a bit grubby, it is a nice, clean apartment (some of my friends apartments looks nicer on the outside, but the inside is the same). I found it was perfect for the 4 months I spent in Japan, and could have lived in it for longer. 

The air con is great - it keeps you cool in the summer and warm in the winter. It also has a handy remote so you can turn it on from the loft when you're sleeping. 

There is plenty of storage space, 2 large wardrobes as well as space on top of them, as well as the loft (you can put your mattress on the living room floor if you want and use the loft for extra storage). The loft is pretty big too, the standardised Leopalace mattress only takes up 2/3 or less of the space, and I am quite tall and I could sit with my head just barely touching the ceiling. There's also a light and a small window at the other end so it's not claustrophobic or anything. There's a built in space in the wall beside it (big enough for a television even) so you can put your things in there while you sleep.

You have your own door to your apartment so it is quite separate to everyone else. There is also a mini camera outside your door with a little tv monitor in the living room, so you can see (and hear) who is at the door before you open it (there's also a peephole on the door itself). So it's pretty safe! 

There are also sliding doors in the living room with frosted glass and an insect net on the outside for during the summer. This for me opened out into a little carpark and then the side of the road (so I never really opened it), but my friend on the third floor of his building had the "world's tiniest balcony" that he could just about stand on.

View from the living room door

Of course this is just my particular Leopalace, I have seen other ones that have a built in bed and no loft, and I'm sure there are other little differences too, but this type is very common. As for pricing I don't know (luckily the company arranged and paid for it on my behalf), I assume it varies on how new it is and the location. From what I understand, it's cheaper to go on the ground floor than on the second or third floor though. So there you have it!