#121 Kyoto March 2016 Cherry Blossom

So I already visited Kyoto a few months back in September 2015. It was during Japanese public holidays so of course it was very crowded, but I figured I would probably go back again sometime before I left Japan.

In March 2016 I returned to Kyoto, in time for cherry blossom season (but too early for full bloom!). I honestly don't really get the whole sakura obsession Japan goes through, complete with sakura flavoured foods and drinks. I mean they look nice but.... I'm not going to eat a daffodil or a rose, so why would I want to eat a cherry blossom? Anyway, back to Kyoto!

Since it was cherry blossom season and a weekend, it was again pretty busy. In fact, I'm not really sure when you could visit Kyoto that it wouldn't be busy. The cherry blossoms weren’t even out yet; there was maybe like one or two trees starting to bloom wherever we went, so obviously these were very crowded. The advantage was there were tons of young women in kimono coming to take photos with their friends, so there were ample opportunities to take some sly photos of them (but if you want a photo of their faces you should always ask permission first!).

If you’re planning on coming to Japan to see cherry blossoms my recommendation is: don’t. It’s hard to plan for (unless you’re planning on coming for a month) and will ultimately lead to disappointment if there’s only one tree in bloom by the time you leave, or all the leaves are blowing off. If you insist on coming I would definitely recommend the JR Pass. The unlimited travel included in the price means you can travel further for free, for example if the only ones blooming are far North or South, as these could be otherwise very expensive to get to.

As for the season and timing, it was bad since the cherry blossoms weren’t really blooming and most of the other vegetation was also still kinda dead. Especially at Kiyomizu dera (the big temple on the hill) the surrounding trees and nature below looked brown and awful in comparison to when I visited in September. The weather was also very changeable, one minute hot and the next cold which meant we were constantly taking on and off our jackets. I think skipping the cherry blossom crowds and coming later in around April/May would be better, as the weather’s usually quite warm and there is more vegetation. (However if you’re coming in May beware of Golden Week, the biggest public holiday in Japan held start of May).

Again the public transport was annoying...especially on weekends and during rush hour on weekdays you’ll find yourself standing on a crowded bus stuck in stationary traffic. The bus route from Kinkakuji (the gold temple) is probably the worst as it’s often very busy and takes a long time in traffic to get to the station. Also, the area of Arashiyama (the bamboo forest) is awkward to access, it means getting a long subway and then walking for around 15mins (there is also some kind of bus option – but in my experience the buses always run late so avoid if possible, which in Kyoto is difficult). Despite the somewhat inconvenient public transport, taxis in Japan are very expensive and I wouldn’t recommend one either. My best advice is to allow plenty of time and just laugh at the experience of being wedged in public transport in Japan. Other than that there are some bicycle rentals which could be useful as long as it’s not too hot or too cold.

I also took another day trip to Nara and the deer park. I noticed this time that the train from Kyoto to Nara passes through Uji, which is famous around Japan for its green tea, so I’m sure there are some things to do around there too. The direct train is very convenient, but Nara Park is about 20min walk from the station when you arrive so it would probably not be a great rainy day activity. The deer park was just as magical this time as it was last time, and this time I brought a selfie stick too for that perfect deer photo!

Overall, I still think Kyoto is a worthwhile place to visit. There are many old, odd and interesting things scattered around Japan, but Kyoto has a lot of them all in one small area, which can’t be beat.

#120 Sample prices of Flights from Japan 2016

When I was going to Japan, I thought I could easily get a €40 return flight to Korea, considering the low cost airfares for around Europe these days. However, this is definitely not the case and it is almost impossible to escape Japan for less than 10,000 yen (€80).


I fly out of Nagoya (Chubu Centrair) because it's my closest airport. Flights are usually a little more expensive than Tokyo or Osaka, but since it's faster and cheaper for me to travel to Nagoya it usually evens out. It's also won Best Regional Airport in the World a few times and is a really nice, clean, modern facility so I enjoy using it.

Here is a sample of the prices of return flights I have paid, the airline and when I was travelling:

Tokyo Narita - Dublin €701 (for December 2015) Etihad Airways

Nagoya - Manila €78 (for February 2016)* Cebu Pacific

Nagoya - Beijing €266 (for May 2016) Etihad Airways

Nagoya - Seoul €157 (for July 2016) Asiana Airlines

Nagoya - Bangkok €257 (for August 2016) Vietnam Airlines

*From what I have seen, the only real bargain I got was for my flight to Manila, which was very cheap. Flights are usually closer to €200+. 

The good thing is that despite the higher air fares in comparison to Europe, you usually get a decent baggage allowance. Etihad give about 23kg, while Vietnam Airlines are giving me a massive 40kg!! Which is ridiculous, it's twice the amount British Airways allowed me for moving across continents...Anyway!

Similarly to other countries, flights go through the roof on weekends, long weekends and holiday periods, especially to close destinations like South Korea. 

You can also get cheaper flights from places like Fukuoka which is geographically closer to places like Taiwan, S Korea, Philippines etc.

If you constantly scour airline comparison sights you could get lucky and find a cheap flight - I once saw €50 flights to Thailand from Osaka...never booked them in time though :( 

#119 Skyscanner Hack - Change Country for Cheaper Flight!

[This is NOT an April fool!] Recently I was trying to organize booking a flight with my sister for our mother from Dublin to Tokyo. I’m more technology savvy so I decided to search for the flights, and then send her the details for her to book. Due to time difference this went on for a few days, with her saying each time the flights were more expensive than what I had said. Finally we went on Skype, using the same website (Skyscanner) at the same time, but somehow mine said it was 500euro, and hers said 600euro. Then I realized – my country was set to Japan, and hers was set to Ireland.

A rumor I had heard before was true – it actually is cheaper depending on the country you book from (or the country you say you book from....) 

I always use Skyscanner – sometimes I check other sites but it always ends up being cheaper or having more options with Skyscanner. If anyone has some other recommended sites, please comment and let me know!

I decided to do this again, with a flight from Japan to Thailand. I changed my country from Japan, Thailand and Ireland. Japans flights were 32,000yen, Thailand was 39,000yen, and Ireland was 40,000yen (about the difference of 60 euro off a 300 euro flight) There were also different flights available depending on the country.

While it may only be the difference of a few euro, from now on I will always toggle between the departing country and destination country at least, to see if I can make some savings. It only takes a minute and could save you substantial amounts!

Below are the screenshots I took, all within minutes of each other. The only difference is the country selected and flights - language and currency settings don't seem to make a difference.

Flights with Japan as country

Flights with Thailand as country

Flights with Ireland as country

#118 Travel Tips; Use Public Transport

So on my recent trip to Manila, Philippines I found myself stressed out and worried. Why? Because of transport. I had read that public transport in Manila is basically a no-go, and that it is better for tourists to use taxis (which are very cheap) and factor in lots of time going places due the crazy traffic.

So I was aware and prepared for this. However, after just one day I had established that despite the taxi’s being cheap, I was either being ripped off by them not using the meter, or I was being taken wherever the driver wanted when the meter was being used. Also in the evening it was difficult to get a taxi, and I had to stand alone on the side of the street and pray I wouldn’t be attacked while I waited, and also pray that whenever a taxi showed up that the taxi driver wouldn’t rip me off too much. 

As a lone traveler, the overpriced taxi fares started to add up to not actually that cheap anymore. Since they all speak English, I also hated making small talk with them. By the time my last day came around, I was too worried about arguing fares, having to wait for a taxi home, and making more dreaded small talk that I just stayed in the hostel all day.

But now I have learned something. I have learned that while travelling alone, I would actually prefer to use public transport, where the prices are fixed and I don’t have to argue about fares or deal with people or worry about where I might end up. If I get lost I can look at a map and try figure it out, or I can ask someone at the station. My safety could still be at risk, especially regarding pickpocketing etc, but I would be vigilant. It requires more planning on my part, but I am in control of the situation.

This is one of the factors why I will not be going to Siem Reap in Cambodia – I don’t think I could handle being ripped off or arguing with a driver all day, or constantly worrying about my safety. Some people can handle it, but not me. It’s neither relaxing not enjoyable and given the choice, I would rather not do it again. In a group this would be different, but alone I just can’t handle the stress. So from now on I will check the availability of public transport in an area before travelling.

#117 Kakegawa Bird and Flower Park

This is a popular attraction in Kakegawa, a stop on the Shinkansen in Shizuoka Prefecture, about an hour and a half south of Tokyo. There is also a small castle here, but overall, if you're not already in the area, don't bother stopping especially for this.



The entrance fee for the park for adults is 1,080 yen. It is then 100yen per food serving to feed the birds, so that’s probably another 500 yen. It’s then 500yen to get a photo with a penguin, or 300yen for a small owl. There is a footbath with fish which costs 300yen, and also a one hour buffet lunch for 1000yen. They do have free bird shows about twice daily.

Overall, the park is quite small. You see pictures and assume it’s much larger, but in reality there are only about 5 bird enclosures. For the price, which probably ends up around 2,000 yen for most people, I think it’s too much.

There is not so much information in English, apart from the bird names. They have notices that you must pay 100yen for bird food, but they don’t bother to translate safety notices like ‘These birds like to bite’ which I find typical of Japanese thinking of “Make sure the foreigners pay and don’t break the rules, but if they want helpful information they should learn Japanese or get out of the country.” (Maybe it’s a little unfair, but I have seen enough notices, or lack-of notices, that this mentality just can’t be ignored.)

For the flower aspect, there’s not really that much going on. There’s an indoor greenhouse where the buffet is served and there are many flowers hanging from the ceiling, and a large lilly pond, but that’s basically it. Comparing with something like the Garden Park or Flower Park in nearby Hamamatsu it doesn’t level up at all.

Yes it’s fun to get a photo with a penguin, have a toucan sit on your shoulder and an emu chase you around a field, but that’s all the highlights. You could be in and out in an hour if you wanted. While I enjoyed myself, I couldn’t help but think the price was too high and the park too small. This is in comparison with a zoo, the average price of a zoo in Japan is probably about 500yen and it would be much bigger with a larger variety of animals, although admittedly you’re not likely to get a photo with a lion.

Overall I would give it 3 out of 5. It’s fun and interesting, but you would get better value visiting Hamamatsu Zoo and adjacent Flower Park. The zoo is 400yen, and the flower park varies by season but can be free, 500yen with a 500yen shopping voucher, or up to about 1,000 yen．

If you’re only in Japan a short time I would skip it entirely, there are far better animal focused places to visit like Ueno Zoo in Tokyo and see Giant Panda’s for only 600yen, or take a trip to Nagano and see the famous snow monkeys relaxing in the hot springs.

#116 Do NOT use Airtickets24

Airtickets24 made a mistake and misspelled a name from the information I gave them, and a spelling error in a name is probably the worst thing that could happen regards flying.

They are difficult to get hold of, and when they eventually emailed back they said the airline does not allow any name changes, but they put a note on the booking saying it was a mistake and she should be able to fly (but it's not guaranteed).

I have no proof they misspelled it, the only thing is I'm 95% sure I wouldn't misspell my own mothers name, and also in the booking info it says it correctly, it's only on the airline boarding passes that it is spelled wrong. I doubt there is much point in trying to argue or get them to own up and take responsibility, so I am just praying it will work out and am vowing never to use them again, and to discourage anyone else.

I was a little apprehensive about using them in the first place, but they were the only website offering cheap tickets. I found them using the Skyscanner website.

The mistake is from Barbara to Barbra. It's literally one letter, but I know that airlines are very strict on names exactly matching the passport, and I am worried she will not be allowed enter Japan.

Her flight is in May so I will update then and let you know if she is in fact allowed fly.

Update: She was allowed fly both to and from Japan. Because the mistake was small they allowed it, but it was a nerve racking experience wondering whether she would be allowed on the next flight or not. At check in she was only allowed her boarding pass for the first flight, and had to get the boarding pass for her next flight at the discretion of the airline staff at that airport. There was also problems with online check in and seat picking, and of the three reservation numbers I had only some of them worked, and it was a bit messy in general. And my final problem was that they only said "you have free baggage" but they could not tell us how much it was - we were unsure if it was one or two pieces since she was flying different airlines each time.
Thankfully it all worked out in the end, but I would still urge everyone to stay away from Airtickets24.

#115 Puerto Galera, Philippines

This is an island resort close to the capital of the Philippines, Manila. To get there, it’s a 2 hour bus and 1 hour boat ride.

It is said to be the “Poor Man’s Boracay” and is popular with the city folk as a short weekend break, and with foreigners as a good place for cheap diving in coral reefs.

Having found incredibly cheap flights to Manila, but having realized there’s not so much to do in Manila, I started looking in the area for some vitamin Sea (cringe, sorry).

There are two main resorts in Puerto Galera – White Beach and Sabang Beach. Sabang is popular for diving and nightlife, and White Beach is popular for thenbeach. I stayed at Muelle Port, which is halfway between the two.

So – it was nice. I wouldn’t say it could rival any of the tropical islands further south, but it was cheap and easy to get to so it has that in it’s favour. If you want to do diving I have only heard and read positive things – but actually I can’t swim so that wasn’t an option for me!

I didn’t go to Sabang, but I saw it from the boat - it looked cluttered and crowded. I went to White Beach and the sand wasn’t very nice, but it photographs well. It is lined with restaurants so I had lunch at one – and I was hassled by people selling things and women begging. I saw a child rummaging through someone’s bag and a local woman give a rather suspicious looking massage to a middle age white man. There were very few people actually on the beach and almost no one in the water.

The island is beautiful and looks amazing from the boat – but when you arrive you have people snatching your bags (for a tip) and tricycle men ripping you off. Make sure you have small change – I didn’t and it made things difficult. I asked the tricycle man before we left how much it would be and he purposely ignored me and drove off. When we arrived he tried to charge me 150 pesos, when I knew in advance from the hotel it should be 50. I tried to give him 50 but he refused, he said 100 I refused, he said 70 I still refused – so then he got angry and grabbed my suitcase and said he would take me back to the port. So I gave him 70. What annoyed me was he was so angry and rude, when all I was trying to do was give him the appropriate amount. He had assumed I would be a stupid foreigner and give him whatever he asked for. This mean and unwelcoming spirit upset me, and was actually a key factor of my time in the Philippines. There was no hospitality, everyone was out to get me and it was a battle everytime. It’s not a happy or relaxing environment.

Getting There

The island is called Oriental Mindoro. I got a JAM bus (be careful, my taxi driver tried to drop me off at JAC bus, although they are nearby) from Manila for 167 pesos to Batangas port, and then a boat. On the way I took Minolo (MSL), on the way back I took Father and Sons (FSL), and they were the exact same. They offer the same service for the same price, so I would say go with whichever leaves at the time that suits you.

I would highly recommend you sit in the middle of the boat. While the sides can give you a better view, it can also get you wet from splashing. Also, when the boat both arrives and leaves into Batangas there are small children who dive from a small row boat nearby and climb around the sides of the boat, reaching in and poking at the people sitting on the sides.

On my return at the port I was ushered to a private looking blue bus. I said I wanted JAM but they said it wasn’t leaving for another hour (probably a lie, you never know). I reluctantly followed the crowds and got on this bus – which I would recommend. It was the same price (167 pesos) except it had much more comfortable seating, and it played Marvel movies (AntMan and Avengers 2) on the journey. So ask at the port how much it is, and check it out – if you don’t like it just get off.

 

Also to mention, my hotel told me FSL had a free shuttle service to the port, so I opted for that. However, when I went outside it was a man on a motorcycle….So he put my small suitcase at the handlebars and I hopped on the back. This was my first time on a motorcycle – nevermind without a helmet/protective gear and on roads that have seen better days. I was traumatized but survived – but for future reference if you’re a solo traveler this could be the transport method.

#114 Manila, Philippines

One of the infamous Jeepneys!

Monument with the national flag

As a young, particularly pale white woman, I didn’t enjoy my time in the Philippines. This could have been different had I also been travelling with a male partner, as did other young foreigners I saw, but I was alone.

I don’t dress sexy, and on the average day I would never turn heads walking down the street. I live in Japan so I’m well used to being an outsider and getting side-eyed when they think you’re not looking. But in Manila I encountered staring and leering on a scale like never before.

On my first day there I was walking beside a busy road and I suddenly realized all the men in the trucks and vans were beeping their horns and yelling at me. I never felt more disgusted in my life. From that moment onwards I felt self-conscious and unsafe.

I couldn’t handle the taxi’s. Also on my first day I was at a mall, and trying to avoid the worst of rush hour waited until around 6.30pm and then decided to head back to my hostel. Being a Friday evening, there were people lining everywhere trying to get jeepneys and taxis, and I ended up standing near a slum with children running around me, but there was a city hall employed traffic warden who was kind and said he would help me find a taxi. Even with the city hall employee I still felt uncomfortable and unsafe and just wanted to get back to my hostel asap, and I had to wait maybe 15mins. It doesn’t sound like a long time, but it was hell not knowing when one would finally show, or if I was going to get mugged or hassled by the slum children (which sounds terrible, but it was scary). I think because it was a Friday it was especially bad, but it made me nervous going out again in case I had similar issues trying to get home again.

Crowds trying to get home on a Friday evening

Getting on/off buses etc. there are people grabbing at your suitcases and asking you where you’re going and if you make the mistake of answering, one will grab your bag and push you in whatever direction and then it’s too late when they rip you off. It’s disorientating and you don’t have two seconds to try figure it out for yourself, they’re on you like leeches, and you have people asking for a tip and you’re not even sure what they did to assist you in the first place.

For the taxi’s they say you should make them turn on the meter because it’s cheaper – but actually I found it was easier for them to impose a rip off price at first, that way at least they have no reason to go the long way around or delay you further.

SM City mall - not one of the biggest, but nice

I would talk about the cultural things, but I didn’t see them. I tried to go to Intra Muros the first morning, but the taxi driver said it was too hot and suggested an aquarium, I politely said “Oh yeah maybe later” but before I knew it he had dropped me at the aquarium. This is when I tried to walk to Intra Muros and failed. So I ended up at a mall and went to the cinema, so I could just get away from it all. The next two days I spent on a nearby island resort, and when I returned on my last day in Manila I had planned to try see Intra Muros again, or go to one of the famous giant malls. Neither of these happened – I was sick from the worry and stress. I knew I was wasting an opportunity, but I couldn’t deal with the stares and the people ripping me off. I didn’t even eat that day because the thoughts of even walking down the street and going to a restaurant was too much. This is very unlike me, so it really emphasized the impact. I just wanted to leave.

I know many people have travelled the Philippines and had very enjoyable times, but this was my experience. I’m glad I had the experience, but I could never recommend a solo white woman to travel here. 
While you might not be in immediate danger of rape or mugging, the stares and leers and the constant overcharging leave a stressful and distasteful impression of the people and the country. You’re constantly self-aware and on your guard, ready for the next argument. For me, it just wasn't worth the bother.

#113 New Year, New Travel!

Having moved halfway around the world to Japan, I was eager to use this opportunity to travel around Asia.

However, this has been complicated by a few things. (1) Having very little vacation time and strict times when I can use it (2) Flights aren't really that cheap, I was hoping for 50euro Ryanairesque flights but they're closer to 200euro and shoot up on weekends and holidays (3) Lack of travelling buddies. I have travelled within Japan twice and each time it didn't exactly go to plan due to the groups I was with....so looks like solo travel from here on out. This also limits where I am willing to travel - being a solo white woman in some parts of Asia makes you a walking target.


Despite these things, I will be going to Manila, Philippines in February, Beijing in China in May, and hopefully Seoul, South Korea sometime in June/July. Then I want to travel in August - I'm thinking Vietnam and Cambodia.....but I'm not sure yet!

#112 Nara, Japan

I feel kind of sad for Nara, because it’s actually an entire Prefecture, and most foreign tourists (including me) only make time to go to one tiny area – Nara (deer) park.

However, the park is amazing. When I went I had spent already spent a few days in Kyoto and Osaka, it was my last day, my feet had blisters and I was physically exhausted. I would recommend against this, and encourage people to try leave some spare time (if they can) so you can relax and truly enjoy things instead of rushing around.

Cost

Entrance to the park and grounds is completely free. You can buy special deer cookies from vendors in the park for 100yen (I bought two packs). Maybe this is a bit mean, but to make the cookies last longer I actually broke them in half and quarters. You hear stories about the deer getting a little irate and attacking you, but I didn’t really see this happen. They’re quite small, and not many have antlers so the obvious thing to do is avoid the antler ones as they’re the ones that will hurt if they try headbutt you. I had a few corner me as I tried to go into one of the gift stalls, but it was more cute nudging than fearing for my safety. *If you have small children you need to be careful and watch them constantly, although the deer are small they could easily knock them over.

The park is also home to the world’s largest wooden structure – a big temple called Todaiji. You have to pay entry to this (500yen), and it is kind of hidden away so if you want to get a photo but not enter it’s a little awkward (but not impossible). Although it wasn’t expensive, I was tired and my main aim of the journey was to take a few deer selfies, which I had accomplished, so I decided not to walk any further and to head back home.

I have found during my travels in Japan (or around the world) that some places can never quite live up to your expectations, or the heavily photoshopped photos all over the internet. However, I am glad to say Nara is not one of these disappointments. The deer park absolutely lives up to expectations, it is magical, peaceful, fun, and quintessentially Japanese. A must-do if you are in Japan.

Access

Nara is easily accessible from both Kyoto and Osaka. I went from Osaka, it took about one hour and cost 800yen, but it usually requires changing trains at one station. From Kyoto it’s also one hour, and there is a direct JR train for 700yen.

To get to the park requires maybe 15min walk, and then walking around the park itself, so factor in a few hours if you want to do this at your leisure (and I would 100% encourage you to bring a picnic). There are shops and restaurants lining the streets from the station to the park, and at the station there is a lot of information for foreign tourists.

#111 A Note on Solo Female Travel

So, I have done some solo travel in the past, and forsee a lot more in my future. I am young, white, 23 years of age. I like to read blogs and comments about solo woman travel in certain areas before I consider if it's safe to go.

Now, I have to make a distinction. I am very sorry to say, but there is a BIG difference between a woman in her 40s and a woman in her 20s travelling alone. I read so many saying "Go for it, I'm in my 40s and I had no problems" and that is totally unfair. I also think there is an issue with ethnicity - depending on your ethnicity you can easily stand out where you travel.

While the circumstances are similar - threat of mugging, robbery etc, it's not entirely the same situation. Now I don't want to sound rude or impolite or sexist or whatever - but the chances of sexual assault and rape are higher when a young woman is concerned.

It doesn't sound pretty, but that, unfortunately, is just how it is. Older woman get raped, but it is more likely to happen to a younger woman, and I disagree with older woman saying "It's fine" when it was fine for them, but not for someone half their age. I also think younger women are also more easily threatened  - if a 30 year old man starts getting aggressive or creepy it could be difficult to ward him off, whereas if you are his age or older than you might find it easier to dismiss him.

This is not always the case, and I'm not saying older women haven't experienced dangerous situations - I just think they are less likely to, and they have a responsibility to think about younger women and how they could be unintentionally misleading them into dangerous situations.

In terms of ethnicity, for example I have read posts from Asians saying they had no problems while travelling in other parts of Asia. Being white in Asia you stand out a lot more and are far more easily targeted than other Asians. Same as having dark or blonde hair etc. This seems blatantly obvious to me, and people need to be careful about saying something was fine when a white woman could find herself getting catcalled, harassed etc.

I also have a problem with women bashing other women who've had bad experiences. Not everyone is the same, and some people deal with situations and assess threat levels differently, and some just have pure bad luck. If one woman is robbed or has felt threatened while travelling in an area, and you had no problems in that same area, it is not right for you to reprimand her for sharing her negative experience. If she felt threatened, chances are there are other women out there who will share her thoughts.

When we are dealing with lives here, I would prefer to err on the side of caution. If there are valid doubts on my personal safety, I would rather miss out on an amazing opportunity than get robbed, attacked, raped, murdered.

Do the limitations bother me? Yes. If I was a man I wouldn't have to worry about the threat of assault and rape, with men leering or shouting in my direction. I want to travel freely in a world without threat to my safety, but I am cynical and I am realistic. I will not risk my life for the sake of a few Twitter updates and Facebook photos. Or a blog post.

#110 Osaka, Japan

I went to Osaka after spending 2 action packed days in Kyoto. My feet were blistering, my legs had turned to jelly and I was exhausted. But I persevered!!

However, if you have time to spare I would recommend scheduling some down time as I felt very rushed (working in Japan = very little vacation time) and I felt I couldn't properly appreciate all of Osaka because I had overdone it in Kyoto.

OK! So would I recommend it? Yes! It's only a short trip from Kyoto (30mins on the local train) so there is no reason why you can't fit it into your visit to Japan.

While Osaka castle is mentioned as one of the main sights, I didn't think it was the most exciting thing ever, and it was also a little awkward to get to. I also thought Shinsekai wasn't as interesting as the internet had led me to believe.

My favourite area was around Namba and Dontonbori - with all the restaurants and flashing neon lights. We also happened upon a flea market at Shitennoji temple, by far the best of what I've seen in Japan - but it only happens on the 21st and 22nd of each month.

#109 Kyoto, Japan

Recently I went on a trip to Kyoto. I was travelling during a big Japanese holiday, which made a lot of things difficult. Obviously I would highly recommend against this - however it was my only time off work so I had no choice but to go then. I still had a good time, but I would strongly advise you to check the Japanese calendar before you plan a trip, as it is very busy, and trying to get photos or linger in one place is tricky surrounded by crowds (but still very safe, as always).


Getting There
Since I'm already in Japan, this involved me hopping on a shinkansen (bullet train). It was my first time on it (although I had lived in Tokyo for 4 months before) so it was an exciting day!

Big stops like Kyoto, Tokyo, Osaka will have trains that always stop, but the faster trains will skip many smaller stations, so always be sure to check that the train will stop at the station you want before you board.
Kyoto is only 30mins from Osaka by local train so that could be a good location to fly to. While it's easy and quick to get from Tokyo, the bullet train tickets are pretty expensive, at least 10,000yen each way (about €200 round trip). I would also caution people travelling during high season - reserved seats will sell out in advance, and with unreserved seating you could end up standing for 2 hours on a train that cost you €100....



Baggage Storage
Yes, I am giving this it's own heading. Kyoto Station has both lockers and a baggage storage room. Now, there are only a limited number of large lockers that fit big suitcases, and these can be difficult to find and sometimes can be full. Since we stayed in an AirBnB we had no option of leaving our bags and coming back later in the evening, and the lockers were all full, but we did get into baggage storage just in time (they were also full shortly after us). You cannot travel around Kyoto with a suitcase, so please be aware of the storage situation!!


Accommodation
While Kyoto is a big place, it doesn't have the selection of cheap hostels that Tokyo has. There are times when everywhere will book out (check Japanese holidays) and you can bet on the cheapest/highest rated accommodation being booked out on most weekends. I would recommend booking ahead, websites like HostelWorld take only a small 10% deposit so there should be no excuse! We had to use AirBnB because everywhere was sold out, and had a good experience, but I personally would always prefer a hostel.



Sights
Thankfully, most sights were actually free. This includes the treetop KiyoMizu Dera temple and the red gates of Fujimi Inari. The Ginko golden temple you had to pay for, and although it is one of the classic images of Japan I basically just took a photo and left...not so exciting, but one of those things you just have to do I guess.
When we went to Gion it was too busy with crowds to really the street, but we did catch a quick glimpse of a maiko walking down a side street. I could say similar about the Arashiyama bamboo grove...it was too full of people to get a good photo, and also it was disappointing anyway, very small (I think I have more bamboo in my back garden).

#108 AirBnB in Japan

I recently went on a trip to Kyoto and Osaka. It was a Japanese public holiday, and everything booked up quite quickly. With no hostels available, or hotels in our price range, we ventured onto AirBnB.

If you don't know, it's basically an app where you can stay at a persons house. It's usually much cheaper than a hotel or even a hostel, especially if you have a group of 4 or 6. You even can find some unique places, but it all depends on the situation.

So I had downloaded the app and browsed through it before. Cheap prices and quirky locations sounded very tempting. But the thought of actually turning up to a strangers house, and just hoping for the best that it was like the photos, sounded a little scary. However, with no other options available, it was time to take a chance!

I was honestly very nervous about the whole thing (the added language barrier didn't help), and as I had suggested it, if it were to go horribly wrong I would have other people to answer to. The good news is, it was a great success! With a group of 6 of us, it was much cheaper than if we had gone to a hostel, and we had the places to ourselves. Both places were perfectly clean, and I had no complaints (and I do like to complain!).

My biggest recommendation for using AirBnB is to book somewhere which already has a lot of reviews. This is probably the best way for you to decide if the place is actually as listed and therefore a good choice. (I actually accidentally booked a place with no reviews, which really worried me as it is definitely not something I would purposely do, and although it was fine it really isn't worth the risk!)

You pay through the website so if anything does go wrong you can get a refund - it's just the being temporarily homeless thing would be the issue....

Some of the downsides; it was a hassle to be there at the allotted times to be shown around/given the key. We (as a group) had all agreed on times - but when it came down to it we were an hour early for the first place and had to wait outside, and the second place I had to check in by myself because everyone else went for dinner. Not ideal. The freedom of a hotel or hostel is much more advantageous, but I'm sure with some places they leave the key for you under a mat or in the postbox.

As we were a relatively big group having only one key was a bit tricky, we were trying to guess who would be home first, or if we should leave the door open if someone was coming home late and we wanted to sleep. Maybe some places have more than one key though..

Also, don't expect for everything to be exactly as listed. I was so relieved that it wasn't a scam and the houses were in good condition that I didn't care about anything else, but other members of the group were concerned about the wifi information or the "hot tub" they had listed (presumably a bath?). Although if they list it it should be there, it's not a hotel and you're not paying hotel prices. If it's a nice place for a good nights sleep, try not to stress over minor details.

Overall, I would like to stress that point. It's not a hotel, and you're (probably) paying far less than the hotel going rate. So you can't expect hotel service and hotel quality, and to do so would be foolish. If you want hotel quality, book a hotel. But if you want to take a chance, keep an open mind and try something new, then this is a good option for you.


Would I use it again? Honestly, not unless I had to. Although my experience this time was overwhelmingly good, I feel like the casual nature of it will always make me apprehensive, and the fear that if something goes wrong then I'm on the street or paying high rates for a last minute hotel is just too great.
But if everywhere else is booked up, or the prices are looking a little high, I'd definitely venture back on and see what I can find.