#129 Hamamatsu, Japan

Hamamatsu is a city on the Shinkansen line about halfway between Tokyo and Osaka.

Ieyasu Kun at Hamamatsu Castle

It has a population of about 800,000 people. It is home to Japan's cutest mascot Ieyasu-Kun, and is famous for it's japanese eel unagi.

There are a number of attractions in Hamamatsu, the most apparent being the only skyscraper in Shizuoka Prefecture, Act Tower. For a small fee of around 500yen you can get a great view of all of Hamamatsu from the top.

Hamamatsu has a small castle, which was built by the famous shogun Ieyasu Tokugawa (who also inspired Ieyasu-kun!).

Hamamatsu is also sometimes known as the City of Music, and is home to the Yamaha world headquarters as well as a music museum.

However, most of the attractions are near a big lake called Hamana-ko.

About a one hour bus ride from the city, you can find many attractions such as Hamamatsu City Zoo, Flower Park, Kanzanji Onsen (hot spring), an amusement park, cablecar and boat rides.

One of the best times to visit would be during the Hamamatsu Festivall, which is held during Golden Week every year. There, at Nakatajima sand dunes, you can find different neighbourhoods take part in kite battles in the sky!

Hamamatsu has many hotels, so it is convenient as a hub for visiting other places in Western Shizuoka such as Kakegawa which has a castle and bird park, Kikugawa which is famous for it's green tea fields and Iwata which is home to the EcoPa stadium which hosts music concerts and sporting events.

Access

The Shinkansen from Tokyo takes either 1.5/2 hours and costs 7,700 for an unreserved seat. There is also a 4 hour highway bus from Shibuya/Shinjuku for 3,800 one way or 6,700 return.
From Nagoya Chubu Centrair Airport it's about a 2 hour direct bus for 3,200.
From Osaka it's either 1.5/2 hours and 8,400 for an unreserved seat.

View of Hamamatsu city from Act Tower

#128 Flea Markets in Tokyo/Osaka

There are quite a few flea markets around Japan, you’ll just need to look up the calendars and see what ones are on when you visit. Some are weekly but others are only every month or two months.

Tokyo City Flea Market

This market is located a very short walk from Oi-Keibajo-Mae station on the Tokyo Monorail line. It’s 270yen for the 10min ride from Hamamatsucho JR station, so it’s going to be more expensive and a little more awkward than many of the tourist attractions, but if you have free time it’s worth a look.

Unlike many markets, it seems to happen weekly so there’s a good chance of visiting when you come to Japan. There are reportedly over 600 stalls, but admittedly there were quite a few with just piles of clothes (which we can assume will not fit the average Westerner), but out of a few hundred stalls you can always find one with something you like.

It’s worth pointing out that at Japanese markets there is the usual Japanese-level of polite, and the vendors will probably not shout at you or try pressure you into buying something, but also there’s probably going to be little to no bargaining either once they state their price.

Overall I thought this market was okay, I have been to better but I have also been to worse. Visit if you have time, but if there are other attractions on your list maybe consider them before visiting here.

There's a website with dates here https://trx.jp/static/en/tcf/index.html

Osaka Shitennoji Flea Market

The flea market at Shitennoji in Osaka only happens about once monthly around the 21st and 22nd (or closest weekend), so there’s a fair chance that you’ll miss it, but if you can go it’s a gem! 

There were many stalls with very cheap (but also very old and stained) kimono and crappy little Japanese souvenirs and assorted items. The prices were mostly very reasonable, and since there was so much choice I think it would be easy to find some cheap and quirky souvenir items.

Kimono and Yukata stall at Shitennoji

Since it’s located at Shitennoji temple, a fairly major tourist attraction in Osaka, you won’t have to go out of your way to find it either.

The JNTO has a list of some other temples, but the information section has just phone numbers so useless for most people I think, but could be a good place to start looking. http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/attractions/shopping/market/antique.html

#127 Mutianyu Great Wall Tour

To get to Mutianyu Great Wall I took a tour with my hostel - it was actually a communal tour bus shared by quite a few hostels in Beijing. It leaves everyday and was 280rmb, plus 100 for the cablecar that you pay at the Wall. There's just no way you're not getting the cablecar so we'll call it 380rmb (50eur). 

It includes breakfast at your hostel (we had choice between like European cheese-yogurt-cereal or American bacon-eggs-toast), a nice, clean, air conditioned bus, an English speaking guide (who explains a little and then leaves you to scale the wall yourself at your own pace), 3hours time on the wall (it was plenty, enough time to get all the photos you ever need), lunch at the bottom of the wall and then return bus home.

The nice thing about the lunch is that if you're running late you won't be left behind - you'll just miss out on the food. The bus took just over 1hr30mins from Beijing, and we left around 8am and returned at 4pm. There were no stops at any souvenir shops or anything.

While not expensive on the grand scale of things, it's definitely a rip-off in comparison if you were to do it yourself. Overall, while I wasn't delighted with the price, I was happy with the service and would recommend it if you want an easy, convenient, hassle-free trip. Plus, on the grand scale of things, 50euro is very cheap to pay to go to the Great Wall of China!

From the photos I've seen (on Instagram) it appears that Badaling is busier than Mutianyu, and also I'm not sure it offers the same views or amount of watch towers. It looks alot more flat and sturdy - which does go with the often heard criticism that it's "over restored" but would make it very accessible, although as I've said before Mutianyu isn't difficult.

The hostel I stayed at in Beijing was Dragon King. I initially had somewhere a little cheaper, but then I noticed it was a little far from the nearest subway station, so I moved to Dragon King. It was located right beside Zhangzhigonglu station which made it really convenient to travel around Beijing, and even come back during the day for a nap! The same tour seems to be organised with Happy Dragon, Downtown Backpackers, Red Lantern and some more, but you should check first.

#126 Beijing Transport

Getting around Beijing is very easy, even with no Chinese and a terrible sense of direction.

Taxi

The one taxi I used had no English but I had prepared my destination in Chinese in advance. He copied it into his GPS, turned on the meter and soon I was there! I can't verify they are all so honest, but it was a good experience, compared to Manila when they always ripped me off or took me wrong place.

Subway

The subway is the main method of transportation around Beijing. It was completely in English, including transfers and announcing the next stop, and also the signs and transfer directions in stations. I found it very easy to navigate - but I would caution you to know which exit to take and what direction to go when you get there. Anyone who has experience with large underground stations will know one wrong exit and you're completely confused.

It is cheap, as most trips will cost only 3-4rmb (50c). As for accessibility some transfers between lines can be long, and a few have only stairs (including transferring from Yonghegong Lama temple to Dongzhimen for the airport express. Painful with a suitcase!)

A sign on the platform. The subway car has similar inside but it lights up for the stops.

I bought a subway transport smart card for 20rmb refundable deposit. My hostel advised against it because there weren't so many places to return but I decided it would be easier than queueing for tickets and working out fares so I got it anyway, and was able to easily return it at the airport express station at terminal 3 before I left China. You can buy it at any subway station, but can only return at some bigger, major stations. There are machines that you can use to buy tickets or top up your card but I thought it was easier to go to the desk.

You should note that all subway stations in Beijing have security checkpoints, and you have to put your bag through an x-ray machine before scanning your ticket. Apparently this can cause lines at bigger stations at rush hour but I didn't have any problem waiting.

The subway has many (unofficial) apps which work offline, the one I used was 'Explore Beijing' for android and it worked just fine, telling me the start and end times of train lines, how to get there and where to change. It also had an area for people to submit 'tips', some were useful for pointing out exits etc.

Bus

The bus has OK English, and is ridiculously cheap (I paid 1.5rmb [20c?] for about a one hour journey). At one point I got lost and couldn't find a subway, but I found a bus stop on the side of the road. It was basically all in Chinese, but thankfully my Japanese skills allowed me to work out the name of one of the central stations and I waited for that one.

However, once actually on the bus there is a list of stops in English and it also indicates ones that have subway transfers, so worst case scenario you could always just get on any bus and get off at the stop with a subway and find your way home from there. The bus also announces stops in English and it flashes up in English too. Also to note, you get on the bus at the front and get off in the middle, and swipe your card getting on and off.

Walking/Street Names

A subway station at 5.30am...very quiet

Many street names have both Chinese characters and the English written underneath.

Due to the Great Firewall Google Translate won't work, but you can download the offline Chinese package. The only problem is that it doesn't show you the reading/pronunciation - so you won't be able to even try say it, just show it to someone.

You can even get a boat from Beijing Zoo to Summer Palace!

The same with Google Maps - while alone and lost I was desperate enough to turn on my roaming when I suddenly remembered the firewall would block maps anyway.
So instead I used my offline Chinese app to ask a street cleaner where the subway station was (for some reason I decided a city worker might be more kind than anyone else), she couldn't explain in English but a man came along and he showed me to a bus stop. Later the woman walked by again and came over and checked I was OK (I think!) which was very kind of her. So don't be afraid to ask for help if you need it!

There are also some offline maps apps but I didn't use any.

#125 Mutianyu Great Wall of China

The view from 23, the highest part at Mutianyu

The first thing you should know about Mutianyu is:

 it really is Great.

The second thing you should know about Mutianyu is that you absolutely need the cablecar. It's apparently over one hour walk from the bottom of the mountain to the wall. Unless you literally have all day, are in very good health and enjoy hiking up mountains - don't do it.

The wall itself is more than do-able even on a bad fitness level, but combined with the walk up the mountain it would be very tiring. The cable car is 80rmb one way or 100 return (13eur) - it's definitely not cheap but it's a necessity. You didn't come all the way to China and Beijing and Mutianyu Great Wall to blow it all and have a terrible time because you were too cheap at the crucial time.

The third thing you should know is that I haven't been to Badaling, so can't officially comment - but the Instagram pictures don't look quite as good, and the photos seem much busier too. I loved, loved, loved Mutiantyu. The views were great, the walk wasn't tough, and the crowds were nowhere to be seen.

Fitness

As for fitness level, anyone can do it. Literally, there's even wheelchair access (although you won't be able to get too far along before encountering steps). I am young but have a terrible fitness level, so even though I'm out of breath I have the drive and determination to keep going awhile longer. I made it to 23, which is the highest part (before you get to the old part of the wall - some people go along there, most give up) it wasn't easy but it was perfectly do-able with a few rest stops and water. There are also many turrets which provide lovely shade too!

At first I thought it would be too far/difficult to go that far, but then I had plenty of time so I decided to do it, so you should try it too! Great view and you'll feel you've accomplished something.

When to Go

When I went, a Thursday morning after a big Chinese holiday the previous weekend, the wall was pretty empty. I was a little worried about people bothering me trying to sell me things, but they were only about three that I saw and they didn't approach anyone. However, this also means you should plan accordingly and bring plenty of your own water and snacks. I overheard someone say water was 15rmb, when usually it's between 2 and 4rmb. Also I was told there were toilets in some of the turrets along the wall - I personally didn't notice any, so it's definitely best to go on the ground before you get the cablecar up.

What to Wear

For clothing, I think sneakers/runners, exercise clothes, a hat plus a backpack is best. I saw some people wearing jeans and pretty shoes and carrying handbags - while it's possible you just won't be getting very far or very fast. In May it's hot (26-31c), and although you're up high it's still very warm and all the walking will have you breaking a sweat. Pro tip: Bring a spare T-shirt to change into. No matter how much deodorant I put on I was still a little stinky on the bus home, and wished I had something else to change into.

Also note there is a ropeway/slideway, but this is not the cablecar I'm talking about. This is maybe a little cheaper but it takes you further down the wall, it's literally lower down on the wall than where the cablecar drops you so I'm guessing the view isn't as good and the hike to 23 would be much harder.

Getting There

Finally, as for access, you can get there via public transport, but I did something I would usually never do and I went as part of a tourr in a private bus (read more about this in my post here). This was arranged by a few hotels/hostels  around Beijing and cost 280rmb, plus 100rmb for the cablecar. 

It was much more expensive than going via public transport, but since I was alone and not so familiar with the language it was just easier to go this way. Also, 380rmb (50eur) for a trip to the Goddamn Great Wall of China isn't too bad!

These steps at 23 (the end of the new part of the wall) are as bad as it gets, I promise!

Sign for the cablecar. There is also a ropeway but it takes you further away.

The view from the cablecar, a little scary!