#20 Transport in Tokyo

To get anywhere in Tokyo, you have two options - the train or the subway. You could also factor in walking, bus and bike. But the first two are the ones you will use all the time. Car and taxi aren't options.

Here's some general info, as well as some hints and tips I've picked up:

Trains and Subways: 

Platform sign for the Yamanote Line around Tokyo.

There is one website you need, www.hyperdia.com
This website tells you how to get from one station to another, all you need to know are the names. It gives you different options, prices, and the timetables of the trains. Basically, it is a life saver and I use it all the time here.

Now, there are some things you should know. In Tokyo, everything is in English (including the platform signs and all the main trains have English signs and announcements for the next stop), so don't worry about that. Also, there is no such thing as a return ticket - everything is one way. This also makes it more expensive. And you should know the trains/subways aren't cheap. On a typical day going to and from any place will cost you about 1000yen.

The trains are cheaper, especially the JR ones (which are most of the ones around Tokyo). Tokyo Metro and the private subway lines always seem to be more expensive, so if you can, try get the trains for all or most of your journey.

The trains and subways run from around 5am - 12am. If you are caught without a train, there are hundreds of 24 hour cafes and restaurants on every corner you can just go into and sit down/sleep. I believe the Japanese are usually far too polite to come and wake you up.

The trains and subways aren't as crazy as you see on the internet, with a hundred people squished against the glass. Mostly. Weekdays from 7-9am is the only time you will see this, and I've been on these trains, and it is not a pleasant experience. Going home around 6-8pm is quite busy, but not near as bad as the mornings.
And don't worry about being groped - you probably won't be. I've been here two months and it's never happened to me or anyone I know, and talking to women who have lived here for years they say the same thing - it's not as common as the media would have you think.
Don't ever expect to get a seat. It is a rare and joyous occasion when this happens.

The Suica and Pasmo cards:
If you are going to be in Tokyo for more than a few days, I would recommend one of these. From what I understand these cards are both the same, but since I have the Suica card I'll give you more detail on that. Basically it is a type of credit card that's topped up with money, and then used to get the trains/subway. It is much easier and faster to just scan it as you go onto the platform than having to calculate fares and buy tickets each time. You can also use it to buy things at a lot of vending machines, as well as some supermarkets.

The Suica card cost me 2,000 yen, but this was with 1,500 yen on it to use, so really the price is only 500 yen, which is very cheap. It also gives you an option to put your name on it so it can be returned to you if lost (or they will give you a new card with the amount you had on the last card). I bought mine at a ticket machine in central Tokyo, although I am not sure if every station has these machines. Every station has machines where you can top up the card, and if there's a problem (such as you have no money left and the barriers won't let you leave. . .don't worry it happens often!) you can go to the help desk and they will sort it out. It's free to top up and use the card, so I'd see no reason for not having one (although my friend still doesn't, unbelievable!).

Car, bus, taxi. . . .
Driving in Tokyo is madness. Don't do it.
I've never gotten a taxi but they are supposed to be pretty expensive, and only to be used when you need to (such as if the train isn't running).
I've never gotten a bus either, but I always see them around Tokyo, so it definitely could be an option.
Bikes are pretty cheap here and you always see people cycling around the outskirts of Tokyo, not so much in the middle of the city. You can't put a bike on a train subway or bus though.


Walking
As with every city, you will walk until you can walk no more! Unless you're like some of the local girls and can walk comfortably in your six inch heels, comfortable shoes and blister plasters are a must. Crocs are very popular in Japan, especially during the summer, and now I know the reason why.

#19 Don't go here

Imperial Palace Gardens

This is the one place I've been to in Tokyo that was a total let down! The Palace is behind big walls and gates and surrounded by a moat so you can't actually seen anything.

I'd read about some bridge, when I got there I walked past it twice until I realised that was it. . . .it was nice but I wouldn't have deemed it worthy of particular attention!

Nijubashi bridge: just like any other bridge

I then went to the East Gardens, which also left something to be desired. The highlight was this, a big foundation of where a tower used to be. The rest of the garden consisted of gravel walkways with trees and bushes around, not so exciting!

It was pretty big, to be fair

If you walk towards the Palace from Toyko station, you will come across a lovely little park with stone seats and fountains. At the time I was there, there was actually a wedding going on in the little buidling there. The fountains change every few minutes and it was nice to sit there and watch them, but again I'd only recommend if you were passing through. 

Nothing spectacular, but nice all the same

And finally, the only other thing of importance I could find in the area was Tokyo station, and the famous Tokyo Station Hotel, which is being advertised everywhere since it has just been refurbished and reopened.

It's a nice building alright.

So to conclude, although free, a visit to the Japanese Imperial Palace should not be high on your to-do list on a visit to Tokyo.

#18 Shinjuku

Shinjuku

Japan's a big place like. . . .

This is a view from the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Buildings in Shinjuku. On the 45th floor there is a free observatory, open until 11pm. I went there twice, once by myself during the day, and again with my friends in the evening, and on both occasions the views are spectacular! The pictures really don't do it justice.

That's Skytree in the middle background

At night it's fantastic to see the lights

Also in Shinjuku is the red light district, or Kabukicho as it more commonly known. While the area has two big main streets filled with lots of cafes, restaurants and karaoke bars, once you go down the side streets it gets a little seedy.
Apparently it is one of the few places in Tokyo where if you are a man you can get mugged, and if you are a woman led into some dangerous situations. . . .I went there at around 5pm Saturday just as it was getting dark, and sure enough I was approached by an English speaking man who wanted to bring me to a Japanese school, coincidentally down some back street. . . I kept walking and told him next time, I had to meet a friend. He followed for a minute or so and then stopped. So my advice would be to travel in a group and keep your eyes peeled, if you do that you'll have a great time checking out some of the more interesting establishments.

It all looks nice and innocent here

Again at night, the signs and lights are amazing

This was my favourite 

Also Shinjuku has lots of shops, so it makes a good day out even if you intend to see no naked women! ;)

#17 Japanese Souvenirs

For a 2016 update please visit my more recent post here: Cheap Japanese Souvenirs

Although I live next to Tokyo, and work there most days, I haven't come across many souvenir shops! I mean you can buy lots of Japanese things that are cool and maybe you can't get in your country, but it's difficult to find shops that sell things like postcards and keychains, the usual Westerner souvenir! I found in many places the goods are often focused on Japanese tourists and not foreign travellers, so there are huge phone charm and biscuit selections but no fridge magnets or keychains! In addition, any souvenirs I have found aren't exactly cheap, and if I'm to bring things home for my family and friends at Christmas I need them to be a little more reasonable! So I'm on the hunt to find some of Tokyo's best souvenirs!

I went to Harajuku recently, and situated there is one of the biggest Daiso's (100yen store) in Tokyo. Although it seemed to have alot of what I've seen elsewhere, I did find some well priced souvenirs for 105-210 yen! Among these I bought two fridge magnets and a phone charm of a kokeshi doll, a japanese flag and fan, two packets of Japanese stickers, a Japanese headband, socks used for the traditional japanese sandals, and the carp flags used to celebrate Children's Day.

Here's some of my booty

I have also seen things like shot glasses, green tea pots and mugs etc in other Daiso shops, as well as other 100 yen shops. Sometimes you will find a wonderful selection in other 100 yen shops that aren't part of the Daiso chain. You can often get things with Hello Kitty on them (I got a rubix cube), as well as Doraemon, AnPanMan and Ultraman (all Japanese childrens characters). I've also found Disney items too. Most 100 yen shops have a food section, and here you can probably pick up pasta with Pikachu on the box, dried squid tentacles to frighten your friends, or some Hello Kitty themed chocolate!

Akihabara Electronics District also has some good tourist shops on their upper floors and basements. They aren't cheap, and be sure to shop around because you will easily find 500 yen difference in lots of goods between shops. Some of the items on sale here are "I love Japan" t-shirts, sake shot glasses, kimonos and yukatas, key chains, fridge magnets, fans, umbrellas, and lot's of other souvenir items! These shops also say things like "tax free" but you must have your passport, and it usually only applies if you spend at least 10,000 yen.

DonKi (in Shibuya, Shinjuku, Akihabara) has lots of weird Japanese items but I found it wasn't particularly cheap.

So, as a basic rule, enter every 100 yen store you see. You're likely to find something super cheap and really cool that will amaze your family and friends!

[Update: Head to Asakusa. There's a whole street there in front of the big shrine with nothing but tourist stalls and shops. Also see my blog post #21 Ginza and crazy Japanese souvenirs! for some Harry Potter and Star Wars Chopsticks and sushi candles!]

#16 Japanese Festivals

The key to having a blog is to update regularly, something I have been failing to do. And now, for an update on festivals.

Japanese Festivals:

A float from the Nebuta Aomori festival

Since I arrived in late August and am only staying until a few days before Christmas, I am caught in a festival dry season in Japan. All of the major festivals seem to happen just after Christmas, spring and then the summer. However, I seem to stumble across many smaller regional ones that happen here in Tokyo.

15th September 2012: One such was the Nebuta festival, which is from the Aomori region of Japan, although it is celebrated to a lesser extent in all around Japan, including Tokyo, where I went to the Nakanobu version. It was my first Japanese festival and it was wild - there were children, adults and elderly people all wandering around together in the most outrageous costumes (they looked like rags thrown on together). There were japanese drums and flute-like instruments and the little area was alive with music. The floats were made out of paper with a light underneath, like a giant lantern. I appeared to be the only foreigner there, and an old man actually asked to take a picture with me, which was sweet. He also gave me a little bell with ribbons on it to stick on my tshirt! He could speak English quite well and asked where I was from and what I was doing in Japan, etc.

Lady Gaga would be envious of this head gear

 One of the six floats

A woman playing one of the (really loud) drums

6th October 2012: I also stumbled across a festival in Kawasaki city, Kanagawa (the prefecture right beside Tokyo, only about half an hour away by train). I have no idea what it was called or why it was happening, and I was too chicken to use my petty Japanese skills to find out (I can successfully say what I want, it's just understanding the answer is the problem!). There were no floats when I was there, but there were lots of music and dancers, and I managed to get a few pictures. 

It was so Japanese-y

All the men came out shouting some chant and dancing crazy

This was a frantic, very jump-y dance!

20th October 2012; One of the more well known festivals, I went to the Kawagoe Festival in Saitama, north of Toyko. There were lots and lots of food and nick-knack stalls selling traditional Japanese food and sweets (as well as Western favourites like burgers and cotton candy). The highlight was the massive 3-tier floats being pulled by hoards of people (including me and my friend! A Japanese man we work with was a part of it and allowed us to pull the float, although there were so many people we really just walked beside it). On the floats there are dolls on top, and on the bottom people in kabuki masks dancing and playing drums. Generally the focus was more on the floats, unlike the previous festivals I went to that had alot of people dancing and playing instruments around the floats.

Up close

From far away

Towards the end, all the floats were brought near each other and a sort of "dance off" ensued